Install Power Steering 300

Please, would like some opinions on power steering retrofits for a 300 that have worked for you folks. Ran a search and found some posts and good info, but since they were a good while back I thought I would ask. I have a Behlen PS unit and I understand there needs to be a priority valve installed that will also meter GPM. One option I found is an OEM (or type of) unit that either replaces or adds to my existing regulator/safety valve on the left side of the tractor. I believe there is also a plug that needs to be installed, not sure what that does. Other option I found is to install a priority valve (Prince or similar) on the high pressure side to the PS unit. I would appreciate advice on what PS retrofit you found acceptable. I have a trip bucket on the front and its just flat getting too hard to turn the wheel. Thanks in advance

Check out www.jacksonpowersteering.com

Thanks, I'll check them out.

Changeover would require different regulator and first valve. As noted, an internal port has to be blocked. You also need a U-tube from regulator to first valve. Check out the CaseIH on-line parts book.

You might find it easier to install a separate PS pump at front of engine. Lots of text and photos on PS retrofits here.

Thank You, I never did really understand the plug that needed to be installed. I did check the search feature for 300 power steering but I do not recall any pics, that would be very helpful. Most things I seen was for 300U. I have thought about a seperate fluid pump but have not taken it past conception. I was on the IH www site but did not see that level of detail, I'll check again. Thanks for the reply.

H's and 300's are so light that most don't see the need for PS. M through 450 is where you will find the archived action. The hydraulic valves are the same for Farmall 300, 350, 400, 450. The valve bank below is from a F-400 w/PS. I paid less than $100 for it on eBay. The PS components will run a home-built hydrostatic PS on a W-400. Yep, there are six valves on this tractor and I will use them all.

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Thanks for the pic and the info? I think I would be fine if it was not for the trip bucket, that puts allot of weight on the front. I plan to make that power controlled later. DO I UNDERSTAND::::::I need to change the valve bank on the right side of the tractor? I thought just the valve and plug on the left side? Also, I thought if I use an aftermarket priority valve I do not need to change the control valve on the left side. I have three valves on the right side now, (1) bucket, (2) depth control and (3) fast hitch. Sorry for all the questions, lots to learn here.

The U-tube has to connect to both valves. Those two valves are different from non PS tractors as they are the only ones with the ports.

I am not sure you can install an aftermarket priority valve on a IH flow controlled system. As far as I know, it has never been tried or written about on this forum. The aftermarket priority valves are frequently used on SMTA, SH, and earlier.

OK, that helps. As far as the priority valve I have not recieved a no go yet, so maybe I will be the first to post good or bad. The regulator/safety valve with the priority valve to feed the PS unit (Behlen) is $425.00. The same source mentioned an add on priority valve but did not really embrace the idea due to having to cut and pipe into the main HP fluid line. Obviously a new regulator is the cleanest option. If I had more time I believe I would fab brackets and install an auto PS pump. Lastly, would you happen to know of a source for 3/4inch compression fittings or maybe a fitting that will sweat on the HP line? So far I am sriking out. Not sure if the hydraulic steel HP line is thick enough to thread. I see a sweat on fitting from the factory. Appreciate you taking time to reply. Thanks

3/4 brass compression fittings are available at a good hardware store or plumbing jobber. Can't guarantee they will handle 1500 lbs. Any hydraulic shop will have steel compression fittings or other adaptors that may work for you.

"I see a sweat on fitting from the factory" That fitting is most likely furnaced brazed. You may be able to hand braze one.

Threaded pipe fittings will not work as the OD of tube is different from pipe.

I hadn't considered cutting the supply and return pipes to the IH distributer pump which is why we're talking about fittings.

Another alternative is to look at where the rear portion of the tubular manifold from the pump goes in the IH valve bank. You might be able to drill and tap an area around the small tube inlet on the big casting and attach a small adjustable needle valve to supply the PS.

But everything considered, I would do as IH did. Get the two valves, U-tube, and plug (or the whole valve bank) and set your tractor up for PS that way. You will add value to your 300. Any other way will devalue your tractor to someone who wants originality.

Another option is to use the endplate shown below. I have no idea if this will work. Owen or Pete23 (both read the forum) would know. You will most certainly have to restrict flow out of the pressure port. I think these plates are only used on 300-350 utilities. I have the one shown if you want it.

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