706 Starter

My 702 (d282) starter has been acting up recently - click, click, click, click, enga...,click, click, engage. It does the same thing when shorting the solenoid.
So I took it off and am getting ready to disassemble to clean. I think I dripped too much diesel on it when removing my tank recently.
Does anyone have tips or common things to look for before I get into it this particular starter? Thanks.

i presume you have checked batteries and connections first, if so then solenoid.

Yep, checked connections and even rechecked off the tractor via jumper cables.

I.d take a look at the solenoid first & see if the contact disc is eroded badly. Also the contact bolts---you can turn them over.

WE take em apart. Clean up with carb spray cleaner /air dry- Grease in bearing hole Check with V>O.meter around armature for dead spots. Use a dremel tool with thin cut off wheels, then cut out excess mica between armature plates.(be careful not to over depth cut. Install new brushes. Check solenoid. Re assemble ,taping end of housing to get correct seating of end plate/nose casting.We also use di-electric grease on all the elec. connections Should be good to go. Done one heck of a lot of em over the years. Regards LOU & Victor.

Diesel fuel getting inside the starter usually does not make them not spin at all. It can make them turn slower and have less power. The symptoms you describe are usually caused by the battery cable stud being eroded so far that it no longer makes good contact with the disk inside. The way to check it is to see if the starter motor will turn if you short across the two large terminals. If it spins then the problem is the solenoid. If it still does not spin the most likely cause is worn out brushes.

If the solenoid stud has not been turned before it is a simple matter to remove the battery cable and feed wire, loosen the retaining nut about 1/4", push the stud in and turn it 1/2 turn. It will only fit two ways so be sure to turn it a half turn. Tighten the retaining nut and reinstall the wire and you're done.

If the brushes are worn to the point where they no longer are making good contact with the cummutator bars on the armature, you will need to have it resurfaced. Don't bother with undercutting the mica on the commutator. It needs to be done with generators but the brushes in starters are hard enough that they will wear the mica down along with the copper so that you will not get arcing like would occur in generators.

You will most likely have to replace the drive end bushing. The other two are often OK to reuse. Check for wear on the shift lever. There is a brake washer between the drive and the center housing that will need to be replaced. You will need a new solenoid plunger boot. If it is a real early starter it may have 1/2" plugs for the shift lever pivot pin but most likely there are 5/8". The larger plugs are 1 3/16".

If you are not going to replace the oil wicks they should at least be removed and soaked in oil. Do not use grease in the bushings, just be sure the wicks are oil soaked. I see a lot of "rebuilt" starters that are put together with grease, often missing the oil wicks, and those are the ones that have the bushings worn out.

If you are going to replace the starter drive use the one for the D310 engine instead of your D282. The main difference between the two starters is the drive. The D282 uses a drive with five rollers for a clutch. The D310 uses a drive with a sprag clutch like the other large diesels. If you want to go top of the line you can use a ratchet clutch drive but that is really overkill for a D282.