to drop oil pan, or not to drop oil pan . . . ?

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e-manhunt

Member
I was changing the oil in my 1940 M, when i loosened the plug nothing came out because a thick hard glop of sludge had formed on the bottom of the pan. I remedied this by sticking my finger in and making a hole.

Now, should i drop the pan entirely and clean it out, or am I just stirring up a hive of problems?

Anything I need to be wary of if i drop the pan?

Where can I find another gasket for the pan, or should I count on forming one of my own?
 
I would drop it. You certainly can't hurt anything by cleaning it out. You could also run a little cleaner in it before you change the oil. I have heard of old timers running some diesel or ATF as a cleaner as well.

You can get the gasket at this crazy place called the dealer. :lol: Just kidding, but they have it. It is only $15, maybe less than that. I just bought one for my MD and I can't remember so it couldn't have been bad.
 
i would drop the pan and clean it out. its pretty straight forward. watch the length of the bolts when you drop the pan. there are a couple long ones in the rear of the pan. you can get a gasket from case i-h or, get an overhaul gasket set from napa or car quest, the lower kit will have the pan gasket. i keep and extra o/h gasket set in the barn, comes in handy for any repairs.
 

Definitly drop the pan. You will be shocked at the amount of sludge in the bottom. A new pan gasket is less than $9.00 plus shipping.
 
When I dropped an oil pan on a Chevy Citation I found they had used RTV in place of a gasket. So when I reinstalled the pan I used RTV and it never leaked. Hal
 
I cleaned out the pan on my H last year and used RTV to make a new gasket, which worked fine. A gasket would probably be better, though. I think you can get them at NAPA, I know they sell head gasket sets and such.
Zach
 
Why would you NOT drop the pan? Do you think saving the cost of the pan gasket now out weighs the destruction of the engine later?
 
Now guys, tell him what he wants to hear even if it isn't the best answer in your opinion. We don't want to get another "Thanks, but no thanks" thread.
 
Obviously getting the sludge out is a good thing, but is running a cleaner a good thing? I have always thought that you should change the fluids on a regular bases to avoid sludge that is the best way hands down. However on an engine, or transmission, be it in a tractor or automobile, is it a good idea to run a cleaner? I was always told that the sludge in the engine car be like a seal in some cases, if you remove that sludge, you might find you burn more oil, or worse, loosen things up where they cause alot of wear and evenually fail sooner then if you had left it alone. I believe this is a matter of opinion, but would love to hear from those who have been to the school of hard knocks.

B.
 
Not only drop the pan but pull the valve cover and clean up the top end. Fill it up with detergent oil, when the oil looks dirty change it. My opinion would be to not use a cleaner.
 
ABSOLUTELY drop the pan! You'll be amazed at the gunk you'll find stuck on the bottom. It will also give you an opportunity to check and clean the oil pickup screen.

Incidentally like El Toro I too have used red RTV "gasket maker" when reinstalling oil pans on my Farmalls. Cheaper than a new gasket, and it works great.
 
There are some slightly longer cap screws at the back of the pan so be sure to get them in the right place or the threads in the aluminum (pot metal?) rear main oil seal retainer will strip out.
 
Definetly pull the pan and clean it! That is the one of the first things I do when getting a tractor now. I lost the lower end on my C due to sludge, and I don't plan on doing that again. This was a matter of probably 30 years of sludge, I didn't know it was there, I changed the oil yearly, but none ever came out, at least until one spring morning about 5 years after I got it. (I figure yearly is good enough for a tractor that sees 10-20 hours use annually) So, I learned my lesson the hard way. Clean your oil pan. Might just save an overhaul.
 
Very good. i really can't stand the idea of gunk in there, but seemed to recall some old advise not to fool with the oil pan --i really couldn't recall what the rationale was.
No problem with the gasket, just thought I'd ask since i was typing.
i got to say i was a bit surprised with the tone of a couple answers to what I thought was a simple, good-hearted question.
Thanks for the helpful answers, guys. people on this site are the best.
 
Definitely clean it out.I brought home a 41 M one time and made it run,decided to change oil and filter.I had to break the plug loose with a 24 inch pipe wrench with both feet braced against the front wheels,when it finally came loose,no oil appeared,so I got me a screwdriver to get it running out,then I tried tapping it up in there with a small hammer.I had to take the pan off and use a putty knife and chisel to dig out the gunk.(about 2 inches thick at the plug hole)It wasnt even gunk anymore.It was hard as a rock,and I figured it'd probably never been cleaned its entire life.
 
What you have is a MESS. If the sludge is that bad in the oil pan, THINK WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE INSIDE THE ENGINE. OIL SCREEN HAS to be plugged as well.Rotten way to treat a piece of equipment, and that my friend is one of many reasons items like that fail the farmers. LACK OF GOOD MAINTENANCE!!!!!To cheap to buy oil & filters and change at regular intervals. Not being a farmer . I'm sure some one on this post will try and rattle my cage, but the truth is the truth any way one slices it. Take off the top rocker pan and clean as much as possible .being careful not to drop sludge in the oil return ports of the head.Temp plug the ports with a cloth ribbon before you start cleaning .If you want some type of cleaner to flush the engine, Kerosene or #1 diesel works the best for us, don't run the engine with it in there,just pull the coil wire and motor the engine over, let it set then drain it.Fill it with oil run for a little while, just idling, and change oil-filter again.Then keep a regular oil -filter schedule for changing. Hope this helps. REGARDS LOU.
 
I would drop the pan and clean and also take the valve cover off and like the other guys said carefully clean the top off. Then I would put a new filter in and fill it with ATF and run it at a fast idle for about 30 minutes and then drain and refill it again and run it another 30 minutes. Then put regular oil in and change fairly often. I have done this on many engins and never had any problems.
Bob
 
This i what I do on every "new' old motor I acquire.

Drop oil pan and clean it and the oil pump pick up. As long as your at it pull the valve cover and clean that up also. Buy some sheets of gasket material and make your own gaskets. RTV works great but I would rather use gaskets.

If it's really filthy I have pressure washed the motor from the top and bottom. Yes I run water down through the motor. (not into the cylinders)

I then pour in 3-5 gallons of diesel fuel in the motor and let it set for a couple days or until I get back to it. Drain the diesel and put in fresh oil and filter.

I have done this on multiple motors,this technique was passed down through my family for at least 3 generations. Grandpa used kerosene.

It works great.
 
If you want to flush the engine, that's your call based on what you find in the pan and valve cover.
At least clean these items so you AND the tractor can breath easier! Gotta check that pick up screen at this point anyway. I know what they mean by "should I, should have etc." I don't always pull the pan, BUT AFTER you pull it, YOU will know what's going on(or not going on) in there. Keep that Farmall purring!
Hey Guys, what about putting the "new" detergents in after ALWAYS running a Non-D? Any trouble loosening up more than you bargained for(w/o a rebuild planned) or seal rejection?
 
Definitely drop the pan. Not a time consuming process. As others have stated check under the valve cover also. Bought a 1945 AV and it had about an inch of silvery sludge in pan and around valves. Cleaned it all out and engine has been running good since. Never did figure out what the silvery sludge was though. Allan.
 
I can't ever figure out why anyone would fool with RTV or making your own gaskets when you can buy oil pan gaskets from Tisco for like 10 bucks?
 
(quoted from post at 09:01:47 02/23/11) I can't ever figure out why anyone would fool with RTV or making your own gaskets when you can buy oil pan gaskets from Tisco for like 10 bucks?

Under $9.00 from A&I and they're made by Victor-Renz. I keep a few in stock, and yes, I do use them myself. Excellent quality and perfect fit.
 
(quoted from post at 09:01:47 02/23/11) I can't ever figure out why anyone would fool with RTV or making your own gaskets when you can buy oil pan gaskets from Tisco for like 10 bucks?

I don't know why anyone would wait for the mail when they could go to the dealer and have one instantly! :lol:
 
(quoted from post at 09:34:06 02/23/11)
(quoted from post at 09:01:47 02/23/11) I can't ever figure out why anyone would fool with RTV or making your own gaskets when you can buy oil pan gaskets from Tisco for like 10 bucks?

I don't know why anyone would wait for the mail when they could go to the dealer and have one instantly! :lol:

Not everyone HAS a dealer within driving distance anymore, and most of the auto parts stores don't have a clue either unless it's a part for a Toyota.
 
(quoted from post at 09:34:06 02/23/11)
(quoted from post at 09:01:47 02/23/11) I can't ever figure out why anyone would fool with RTV or making your own gaskets when you can buy oil pan gaskets from Tisco for like 10 bucks?

I don't know why anyone would wait for the mail when they could go to the dealer and have one instantly! :lol:

The only wait I have is the 10 minute drive to my local AgriParts store. They stock just about every gasket for everything from letter series Farmalls to Todays tractors :lol:
 
That's part of the problem -- i don't have anything nearby. So to go to a dealer means a couple hour roundtrip. My projects always seem to take forever because i get the job started, then have to wait on parts.
That's why i asked about the gasket or other hidden pitfalls, so i could try and line up tools, parts in advance.
Asking questions here, even seemingly obvious oones, often saves me headaches later on.
 
I'm in a different boat than everybody else. I have two dealers that are within 20 min either way. I couldn't make it to a NAPA etc any quicker than a dealer.
I have TSC (Good for the Tisco stock) and Farm and Fleet (WORTHLESS) but they aren't a lot of help on projects beyond gas caps and radiator hoses.
I like to study the parts diagrams online before I begin a project. This will help you figure how the project is going to go and give you an idea of what parts you will need. It is worthwhile to use the dealer for your parts for this very same reason. An example is when I did the rear main seal in my MD. I forgot about the two rubber plugs in the bottom and the dealer reminded me that I would need them as well as the other stuff I ordered. That wouldn't happen online or in NAPA.
 

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