Tips to remove stubborn old-style oil seal

PaddyO

Member
Having hell of a time removing the old leather style oil seal on brake actuating lever on 400 IPTO. Part# 359309R91. The snap ring for bushing I believe is flush against the back of seal. I have managed to chew up the front face and I thought you guys might have tip on getting it out before I damage anything. Don't be afraid to "talk down" to me as I am just a rookie.

Thanks in advance

Paddy
 
Not familiar with the location of the particular seal, but will assume it's the typical stamped seal casing with the rubber lips in the middle.

When they're stuck hard, I usually suggest heat and penetrants, almost like busting a stuck bolt free. Heat both, the seal and the surrounding metal. As it cools, shoot your favorite (PBBlaster . . . ) onto the seam while it's still hot but cool enough that it doesn't sizzle away. As it cools it will draw the stuff in. Might take several cycles of that -- the heating and cooling will mechanically break up any rust holding it, and the penetrant will do what it does.

As for the mechanical part of pulling . . . I dont know how much you've buggered up what you have. There's the standard tool made for pulling, kind of like a double-ended narrow hammer claw. If that isn't gonna work in your situation, the most common alternative is to drive a couple of screws into the face of the shell of the seal and use a prybar to pull from under the screwhead -- it works well but works better if you've at least applied a penetrant, and even better if you put the heat to it, as well.
 
Since you have the "outside" [front] of the seal pretty well done away with, use a SMALL narrow chisel to cut through the metal on the circumference of the seal. Might have to go in 2 places & then try to collapse the outside inward. Might help to grind the chisel tip at a very slight angle to help it to stay along the outside edge of the seal as you cut. Take your time with the cutting & try to get as much leather seal material out before starting as you can.
 
if there is any front face, put small pilot holes in it with a 1/16" drill. then put sheet metal screws in the holes. pull on the screws with small prybars (tack pullers).
Next idea is to sharpen a screw driver tip at an angle then use it to chisel the perimeter along the bore to let the diameter collapse. Jim
 
If there is enough face material left, try a "slam-hammer" tool or also called a body/dent puller. Some
come with a collet to hold a sheet metal screw that anchors in. I botched a job w/o the puller. Had to take it out in pieces. Heating and penetrant seem to help. I also had one stuck in a sheet metal type housing. I was afraid to bend the housing(it was out of tractor- hard to hold steady).The screws just kept pulling out. Took it to well seasoned mechanic- he put it in a vise an knocked it out with a punch. No damage.
 
Went with the method of using a small dent-puller. Other than using a longer sheet metal screw to "miss" the shaft, work like a charm!!!

Thanks to all who replied!

Paddy
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top