F-30 update

Well, there is good news and bad news. I have aquired F&H front spoke wheels with tires included with 90% tread on them. Picking the rears up at the winter convention. got underneath the engine today, and things look a bit worse than I originally thought. Front main bearing is rusted pretty badly, rear main is clean. ALL cam lobes are heavily rusted and lifters too.

I haven't got the caps off the connecting rods yet, but looking on the outside, #2 and #3 are VERY rusty. #1 and #4 look clean. I am worried that #2 and #3 journals may be toast, but won't really know that until I get the caps off, and as I stated before, #2 connecting rod is a pretzel. Oil pump is stuck in the block, and I am trying to figure out how to get it out without busting it.

Took the clutch inspection plate off, and to my total amazement, NO RUST! No mouse nests, NADA! so, for whatever reason, the clutch looks in very good shape. Peddle works good, and will test if the pressure plate is stuck or not tomorrow.

So, the only things so far on the engine that looks good is the block and the head. I will have to have new seats installed in the head with guides, etc. but the head otherwise looks good.

I won't make any final decisions until I get the engine out and the rod journals exposed, but engine [i:4d3110f207]may [/i:4d3110f207]be toast except for parts.

Film at 11..................

For what it is worth, you can get new main bearings pretty cheap on ebay. The bearing numbers are 6316 & 6314. They will not be the max fill bearings like the originals (they will have fewer balls) but they should work fine for what light work the tractor will do now. I just bought one of each front and rear main bearing for F30/W30. The bearings I got are called self-aligning and have two rows of balls, the numbers for those are 1316 & 1314.

Tom, you may need a couple of sleeves and a rod, but you will be surprised at how well everything survives and cleans up. Those crankshafts are very robust and the rod bearing babbit doesn't rust. They may stain the crank but I hardly ever find any pitting or damage under the rod bearings. I buy the original full load type main bearings for about $300 each.

Kirk and 36, appreciate the comments. I am not ready to throw the towel in, but I do get worried when I see that much rust.

Yup, if the journals are only stained, it is full speed ahead. Cam worries me though, but it too may just be stained.

Kirk I agree, if I get this old girl back together and running, she won't be a total trailer queen, but she also won't be a workhorse either. heaviest work she will ever see is the "dead sled" at the shows for the antique stock pulls. I don't pull to win, just to have fun. I have been pulling the F20 the past few years, and as long as I beat 1 green one, I am happy!

ps I have been happy my last 3 pulls!

I have a block with a good crank in it if you need
parts.