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SM Clutch

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Bud Kaiser

Member
I replaced the brake and clutch shaft then started up tractor no clutch.I lowed the belly pump and checked operation all looks normal ecept all 3 fingers are almost flat on the pressure plate. I took the bolts a few turns loose on the pressure plate then the fingers will be at an angel and clutch has feel but when I tighened it up same thing fingers almost flat.
I see no broken springs and I am stumped why this happened.I just thought someone might be able to save me from spliting the tractor.
Thanks
 
If you replaced the clutch, you might have put the disk in backwards. If the cross shaft was taken out and then put in incorrectly the Throwout bearing might be in the wrong place.
Re-check the location of the TO bearing on the release sleeve. If it is back too far,the shaft might be in wrong. If you didn't have the clutch disk out that is likely the issue. Jim
 
I only had the shaft that whent to the petals out and just can"t see how that could have affected the clutch.Does anybody have any advice on replacing the clutch.Is the repair manuel on this site a good manuel are any suggestions?
 
Did you remove the 3 cap screws [bolts] that hold the pressure plate retracted when the clutch is removed? I believe they are 3/8. That could affect the pressure plate travel onto the disc. Easy to check.
 
With the new information, I believe the issue is in the rod linkage going on the outside of the tractor.
They do not have internal parts that get wrong for no reason. The caseih.com sight has diagrams to see the components. Put in Farmall in the descriptor box when you get there.
The pedal is adjusted so that there is one and one eighth inch of free travel between the foot plate of the tractor and the pedal stop on the pedal when the pedal is pushed in by hand. The pedal is pushed only until clutch resistance id felt, not running. If this is set correctly by adjusting the long rod it should be fine. Jim
 
Bud when you put it back together by chance did you forget to put in the two keys that keep the fork that pushes the throwout bearing from spinning on the shaft or could they by chance have sliped or sheared? Just a thought.
Bob
 
Didn't he just take the rod that the clutch pedal and brake pedals ride on out? If I am reading correctly he didn't mess with anything with the clutch, PP, TO bearing, etc. All he did is replace the rod that holds the clutch pedal from going cockeyed.

If that is the case did you put the keys back in there so the pedals have something to bite? Are you sure the rod is moving? Did you adjust clutch free play while you there? (I would)
 
S2710 is correct, you will probably find the two keys laying in the clutch housing. Those lock the mounting part for the release bearing to the shaft.
 
If you didn't change any linkage to clutch nothing you did with the pedal would effect pressue plate. The fingers should normally lay parallel to pressure plate and come to the rear as linings wear. There is no key in the clutch pedal, it just pivots on the shaft. On a super you need to split to get pressure plate out. Disc can be taken out from below but it is not worth the hassle. By no clutch, do you mean it will not disengage or will not engage.
 
Reread your post, you said the shaft (rear shaft) the pedals are on, not the front shaft. Clutch pedal has a rod that goes to the front shaft we mentioned that holds the clutch release bearing, etc. The rear shaft does nothing except serve as a shaft for the pedals only. Replacing it alone has no effect on the operation of the clutch. Don't mess with the fingers, unless they are out of line with each other, each one has to be the same distance from the release bearing. Moving them in or out adjusts the pedal clearance, adjusting the pedals changes the clearance between the fingers and the release bearing. Easiest to adjust the rod going to the pedal. You must have done something else.
 
Thanks for all yalls replies but I have checked pretty much all yalls replies .The linkage ,fork and throw out bearing all are moving together
and all looks normal, just guess pressure plate must have just failed. I would like to know any short cuts in putting a clutch and pressure plate in. I would also like advise on a manuel with easy to follow directions and pictures.
 
(quoted from post at 20:43:17 02/19/11) Thanks for all yalls replies but I have checked pretty much all yalls replies .The linkage ,fork and throw out bearing all are moving together
and all looks normal, just guess pressure plate must have just failed. I would like to know any short cuts in putting a clutch and pressure plate in. I would also like advise on a manuel with easy to follow directions and pictures.
Click to expand...

There is no such thing as an easy to follow manual. Just split the tractor and do the stuff. I just did my first one and it was simple. The IH service manual only tells you how to adjust the clucth. All three paragraphs on clutch removal in the I&T manual are worthless. The SENTANCE on reinstallation is somewhat valuable. It says to screw bolts into the tapped holes in the pressure plate to compress the springs during reinstallation. This makes sliding the tractor back together and bolting up the PP much easier. The IH servicemans guide may be more informative. I do not own that one.
 
I still do not believe the clutch is at fault.
Take the linkage rod off of the outside of the tractor. Leave the front short lever in place. Put a large adjustable wrench on it as a handle and look at the clutch and TO bearing as it is moved. If the clutch now releases correctly, the issue is in your reassembly of the pedal system. What was the reason you removed the pedal pivot?
Was anything replaced in that area? Was the rod replaced?
If the clutch will not depress (inside when moved by a wrench) the two keys might be sheared on the shaft inside the housing, these keys operate the throwout bearing fork to shaft. Jim
Where
 
(quoted from post at 08:51:04 02/20/11) I still do not believe the clutch is at fault.
Take the linkage rod off of the outside of the tractor. Leave the front short lever in place. Put a large adjustable wrench on it as a handle and look at the clutch and TO bearing as it is moved. If the clutch now releases correctly, the issue is in your reassembly of the pedal system. What was the reason you removed the pedal pivot?
Was anything replaced in that area? Was the rod replaced?
If the clutch will not depress (inside when moved by a wrench) the two keys might be sheared on the shaft inside the housing, these keys operate the throwout bearing fork to shaft. Jim
Where
Click to expand...

My money is on that area as well.
 
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