Farmall M trans input seal.... help

Stemmy

Member
[b:86f2210dd3]alright, so I've got the lift all pump out of my M, replacing the input seal on it, along with the trans input and pump output seals. I have the Trans shaft coupling out, and the yoke slides free on the shaft, but I cant get it off b/c its up against the yoke coming from the clutch. Am I not doing something right or do I need to split the tractor (or atleast loosen the 6 bolts holding it together)?? This is the first time Ive had to do this so im still learning. All help is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.[/b:86f2210dd3]
 

I had to loosen the clutch cover and pull the shaft, at that point I dropped it and inspected the clutch.
 
can you give me some info on how to go about this? or if you have pics it would be great. Thanks for the help!
 
(quoted from post at 14:09:10 02/18/11) can you give me some info on how to go about this? or if you have pics it would be great. Thanks for the help!

Remove the clutch cover bolts and drop the assembly down.
 
(quoted from post at 12:22:18 02/18/11)
(quoted from post at 14:09:10 02/18/11) can you give me some info on how to go about this? or if you have pics it would be great. Thanks for the help!

Remove the clutch cover bolts and drop the assembly down.
Are you talking about the TO bearing and carrier and that big silver thing? That is easy to remove.

p50875.jpg


This stuff.
 
(quoted from post at 16:56:44 02/18/11)
(quoted from post at 12:22:18 02/18/11)
(quoted from post at 14:09:10 02/18/11) can you give me some info on how to go about this? or if you have pics it would be great. Thanks for the help!

Remove the clutch cover bolts and drop the assembly down.
Are you talking about the TO bearing and carrier and that big silver thing? That is easy to remove.

p50875.jpg


This stuff.

I forgot, he has to unbolt that guide sleeve as it comes out with the clutch and input shaft
 
I had the same issue with my M. I had to remove the clutch to get enough clearance. Apparently on some tractors you can and some you can't. Probably time to inspect the clutch anyway....
 
dad found the IT manual, it seems fairly easy but reading words and turning wrenches is two different things. Im gonna tear back into it after I get off work, and hopefully get it back together tonight. Thanks everybody for the help and pictures!
 
well as my luck would have it Im going to end up splitting the tractor so I can get the input coupling off, so much for a quick seal replacement job.
 
(quoted from post at 20:18:39 02/19/11) well as my luck would have it Im going to end up splitting the tractor so I can get the input coupling off, so much for a quick seal replacement job.

Are you having problems dropping the clutch????. You MUST drop the clutch, sleeve, clutch cover, and input shaft as one piece.

Oh, and you may need to pull the release bearing shaft out to get clearance if you have the clutch cover that can't be caged down. ( I have that one )

I done mine last fall, it is tight but it will all come apart just fine.
 
(quoted from post at 17:45:48 02/19/11)
(quoted from post at 20:18:39 02/19/11) well as my luck would have it Im going to end up splitting the tractor so I can get the input coupling off, so much for a quick seal replacement job.

Are you having problems dropping the clutch????. You MUST drop the clutch, sleeve, clutch cover, and input shaft as one piece.

Oh, and you may need to pull the release bearing shaft out to get clearance if you have the clutch cover that can't be caged down. ( I have that one )

I done mine last fall, it is tight but it will all come apart just fine.

What do you mean when you say clutch? Like the PP and friction disc? Just wondering.

To the OP, don't forget to screw the three bolts in the tapped holes to take the pressure off. That will help you get the clutch in and out.
 
[b:e1fb3c6745]my M has the larger clutch in it (which I didnt pay attention too at first), I tried removing the clutch but still dont have enough room. I have the linkage unbolted and the bolts removed/moved to compress the springs. Still not enough room. My uncle owns a large truck shop and he said I can bring it over there since I dont have any level area to split it. So I just gotta borrow my buddys trailer and take it for a little road trip.[/b:e1fb3c6745]
 
(quoted from post at 00:00:59 02/20/11) [b:47205bb3c6]my M has the larger clutch in it (which I didnt pay attention too at first), I tried removing the clutch but still dont have enough room. I have the linkage unbolted and the bolts removed/moved to compress the springs. Still not enough room. My uncle owns a large truck shop and he said I can bring it over there since I dont have any level area to split it. So I just gotta borrow my buddys trailer and take it for a little road trip.[/b:47205bb3c6]

Did you pull the cross shaft???? What is a "larger clutch"???
 
my M is a later model that has the larger 12" clutch, the early model M's had a 11" clutch. As per the manual you can remove the 11" clutch without splitting the tractor so you can replace the input seal, however its not the same case with the 12" clutch. Gotta split the tractor to get enough room to remove the trans input coupling so I can replace the seal.
 
(quoted from post at 13:58:02 02/21/11) my M is a later model that has the larger 12" clutch, the early model M's had a 11" clutch. As per the manual you can remove the 11" clutch without splitting the tractor so you can replace the input seal, however its not the same case with the 12" clutch. Gotta split the tractor to get enough room to remove the trans input coupling so I can replace the seal.

I knew I didn't put a 12" clutch in my MD for a reason!
 
(quoted from post at 16:58:02 02/21/11) my M is a later model that has the larger 12" clutch, the early model M's had a 11" clutch. As per the manual you can remove the 11" clutch without splitting the tractor so you can replace the input seal, however its not the same case with the 12" clutch. Gotta split the tractor to get enough room to remove the trans input coupling so I can replace the seal.

So what is stopping the clutch from coming out?????
 
lack of room between the trans input shaft coupling and the clutch shaft. Im guessing with a 11" clutch the clutch shaft is shorter and thats why you can remove it without splitting the tractor? Im hopefully taking it to my uncles shop this weekend, weather permitting. we got 7" of snow here in MD last night.
 
(quoted from post at 20:43:26 02/22/11) lack of room between the trans input shaft coupling and the clutch shaft. Im guessing with a 11" clutch the clutch shaft is shorter and thats why you can remove it without splitting the tractor? Im hopefully taking it to my uncles shop this weekend, weather permitting. we got 7" of snow here in MD last night.

I do not understand......Did you unbolt the clutch cover?????? And unbolt the bearing carrier?????
 
The 12 inch disk will come out without splitting the tractor but you can't get the pressure plate out.

You should be able to get the yoke off the transmission input shaft if you use three of the pressure plate mounting bolts to draw the levers in and then remove the other three mounting bolts. After removing the two bolts that hold the release bearing carrier support, pull the clutch shaft back enough to get it out of the pilot bearing in the flywheel. You should then be able to move it to the side enough to slide the yoke off the transmission input shaft.
 
tried that... the clutch shaft doesnt clear when you pull it out, it hits the input yoke on the trans. I've got it all back together now, just waiting on my buddy to get done with his trailer.
 

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