Farmall M with duals

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Thinking about getting a Farmall M with Dual rears wheels and a 9 sp tranny as my tree pulling tractor. Thinking it would be good for 2 reasons. One, with duals the rears might spin less, and the 9sp would allow me a lower gear at higher RPM. Been using a regular M for the job.

Anybody run an M with Duals or with the 9 sp?
 
If you are talking about a M&W 9 speed tranny, its not going to "allow me a lower gear at higher RPM." M&W 9 speed tranny is an overdrive for gears 1-4, allowing you to go faster.
 
doh! yes, it is an M&W 9 speed transmission.
Thanks for the tip, you just taught me something.
So that thought is out the window on it having creeper gears.
 
What you could find in an M is the low low 1st gear used for corn picking. The only real way you could tell is if you found one and drove it! or install one in a regular M. Otherwise, regular 1st is the only option I believe...
 
In the late 60's we used an M with Duals(cast wheels dished in/ dished out which allowed the tractor to ride the top of the ridge when we go-digged row crop corn. Great traction. The rear tires we not the same size, the inside were somewhat smaller. The go-dig was two point and was a Haberlin Two point hitch (manufactured in Ault, Colorado)on the M.Still have that hitch and one just like it on two Super M's(one with live hydraulics and one without.
 
Dick: Can you post pictures of your super M"s with the fast hitches and any information on the hitches? Thank you. Armand
 
"n the late 60's we used an M with Duals(cast wheels dished in/ dished out which allowed the tractor to ride the top of the ridge when we go-digged row crop corn. Great traction. The rear tires we not the same size, the inside were somewhat smaller"

From the mid '50s till the late '60s we ran a SM with duals mounted that way except all 4 tires were the same size. Originally we did it to pack silage & would borrow a neighbor's M & use the rear wheels off of it. After a year or two we bough our own complete set of cast centers, rims & tires and use them working ground as well.

In the spring we ran the tractor with duals. At cultivating time we would remove all four rear wheels & put the inside wheels back on with the dish in ")" and mount a 448 row crop cultivator on the tractor. In the fall we would dual the left (land ) side for plowing. Then back to duals on both sides for spring.

Looking back, it sure was a lot of man handling of wheels. I was about 12 the first time I did it by myself. I was just glad I never dropped one on me, especially considering the inside tires were filled with fluid.
 
Gene,
There are a few old guys who use tractors for pulling trees.
There are a few bold guys who use tractors for pulling trees.
But there are NO old, bold guys who use tractors for pulling trees.
LA in WI
 
Last time I tried to pull small tree with tractor I hitched 1466 with duals to it with good 1/2 chain and all I acomplished was one broken chain.
 
The tractor HAS to be able to spin its wheels, or else you're going to break something. Possibly yourself when the tractor walks underneath itself and lands on top of you.

Do you mean a "tree pulling" tractor, or a LOG SKIDDING tractor?

Uprooting standing trees is another good way to break something.

If you're cutting the tree down, then dragging it to another location for disposal or to cut up for firewood, that's something entirely different.

If you INSIST on uprooting trees, be smart about it. Hook on the trunk as high as you can reach and use leverage to tip the tree over.
 
As the others have said, the 4 added speeds are all between the tractors normal 4th gear and 5th. (all faster than 4th and slower than 5th. No help.
Pulling trees less than 4 inches in diameter can be done, especially brush and weed trees. A steel "A" frame made to pull up on the tree and horizontal on the tractor can help dramatically. Do not use tow straps, or cable. They stretch and snap killing operators. Do not jerk out trees (ever). Cut off tops before pulling to assure they will not smack the operator off the tractor. Do not attach any chain to any point higher than the original drawbar. Hooking to the end of the swinging drawbar is best.(extending the swinging drawbar 2 feet with a pipe pushed over the drawbar with a hole for a pin, will extend the drawbar such that the tractor will have far less tendency to flip over backwards).
The best is not to pull anything but brush, carefully. Jim
 

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