22-36

This is a follow-up to El Toro"s posting.
I obtained a couple of pieces of sheared off .020 shim stock from my machinist.
My images show two of them placed between one spline and its groove. It would be better to have used a .040 shim, giving less potential for wear with less surfaces to rub against each other.
But, the idea is there.
Janicholson mentioned the use of "machined L-shaped shims." I don"t understand what that means, as my shims are merely flat.
I think if I can get a series of these shims in place in all of the spline areas, it would help.
The shims would all be trapped by the inner race of the tapered roller bearing toward the center of the shaft, further trapped by the longitudinal dimension of the transmission connection, and, finally, by the washer on the outer end of the shaft...which is held in place by a washer with its bolt and lockwasher.
What do you all think of this shimming scheme?
From one of the responders, doing nothing may be ok, too.
<a href="http://s99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/Tom_084/?action=view&current=Shimsinspline2800.jpg" target="_blank"> </a>
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shimming is just a temperary fix and will not last. if the main splines got worn out those little pieces will turn into hamberger... you have a bonus as it wont be worked hard though. to fix this properly it is machine shop work to build up the splines and recut them and have them fitted properly,... "tight".

Rustred,
You say "have the machine shop build them up."
Some concerns here: welding may or will soften the shaft, which would need to be rehardened, I suppose and probably no problem.
Different kinds of weld material as to hardness.
Probably an expensive operation.
Also, hard to build up the inside of the transmission connection with welds.
Don't know how practical this machine shop idea would be.
Making a new shaft is out of the question, as to expense.
Getting a used shaft would probably bring up a similarly worn one, if you can even find one.
Do you think I would be best off leaving it as is and, knowing that it will not be put to work in the field and will probably not have too much running use?
I'm getting close to feeling that doing nothing to it might be best?
Agree?
Thanks,
Tom

put the shims on the back side of the spline and not the side with pressure on it and I would think it should last a long time.

I think the pressure side would change depending if the tractor was being driven forward or backward, if I am understanding this correctly.
Zach

Zachary,
I don't see how the pressure side could change.
Remember, the engine is always turning in the same direction.
The reverse shaft pinion within the transmission would be the means by which the tractor would run backwards.
Tom

This would be a fairly easy repair for a competent machine shop. They could true up the internal splines and buildup and cut the shaft to match. Welding on that shaft would actually harden it and if cooled properly have no effect on the temper of the rest of the shaft. Why risk of all your money and hard work restoring the tractor by leaving a weak link it the tranny, could be especially exciting if it broke while loading or unloading from a trailer.

the boys in the machine shop are trained and well qualified in this line of work, "supposedly".All your questions are taken into consideration,after all this might be just the everyday type of repair for them.its nothing complicated. but yes it will be expensive, maybe 5-600 hundred but just a guess. you are talking about welding on it, well for instance crankshaft journals are welded up and then reground to spec. a good machine shop can do just about anything with all those fancy machines. just welding the end is useless as it will just crack.it will outlast you as is but gotta put up with a jerk each time from forward to reverse.

Thanks for explaining that, I was misunderstanding where on the tractor this assembly is located.
Zach

Looks like the shaft splines are the ones which are worn--right? If so, I'd take a mig welder & go down the worn side of each tooth maybe an inch at a time to avoid large heat build-up problems. Then--depending what you can get for equipment--cheap--use a mill or even an angle grinder in a jig to flatten/ shape the welds to fit the hub.
I'll see if my brother would volunteer his mill to cut the welds. He has a Cinncinati. I take it the shaft is on the order of 4-5 feet long. We're housed up over here 30 miles East of you, so distance isn't the problem.
Any one else on here please chime in with any suggestions. This outfit probably isn't going to be in any traction contests, so just taking most of the slack out ought to help.

Tom, you might try Lawrence Machine (319) 643-7378. He is south of West Branch.