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Splitting Stand Pictures (and an update on the MD)

S

sflem849

Well-known Member
Here are some pictures of the MD as it starts going back together. I know there was some (and always is some) talk about splitting stands. These photos show what I am working with.
It needed a ring gear so it got the clutch split. Then of course there was the "while I am in there" things. The PP was warped so it got a new clutch. The whole thing was COVERED with oil bc of the warped seal retainer. So it got the good seal retainer in place of the old one and a new rear main seal. The pilot bearing was spinning in the flywheel so it got a used flywheel.
I saw today that the top shaft in the trans was possibly leaking so I will change that out. I am also probably going to put the seals in the Lift-All while it is out. I just wish I could make it lift something! Lift-All my...well...you know.
Enjoy!

p50854.jpg

p50855.jpg
 
Looks good! I just did the same things to my MD a few months ago. I also had a warped seal retainer, but it wasn't too bad so it was able to be straightened. Tractor has 3-4 hours running time since I didd this, and all seems good so far.
 
Nice project. You are doing it right- fix as you go.
Great stand! I used an old fashioned engine puller to hold my VAC trike front to change clutch. It has a nice worm gear driven cable and casters to get things lined up just right. Good luck! Hope you have her running soon!!
 
(quoted from post at 19:42:59 02/06/11) Oh oh. That's way to nice. I may have to get the welder out now.
Click to expand...

When you get the square tube be sure to get the good tube because the welded seam required a lot of work to get to sleeve properly. That stupid seam had to be ground down on the INSIDE of the whole square parts. Other imporvements I would make
- Allow stands to be shorter. This was just improper drilling of the holes for my application bc the stands were made for a 8600 Ford. That would be an easy fix.
- Be sure you make a jig to drill the holes so everything is interchangeable. :)
- If you have access to a mill I would make some slits or x type holes in the plates up top. That way you could fit them in more holes. That is why we have the cross braces bc I was too lazy to drill a second hole in that big old plate.
- The other way to do that would be to make interchangeable top plates for different applications. This is the way we did it. You can see the things that bolt on the tractor can be removed and replaced with other things.
- Maybe make a way to support the engine inside the frame rails. I will let you know next weekend how easy it is to get the clutch aligned!
 
Take a look at this stand, it has slots in the mounting plates and has two course adjustment for height. Wheels have roller bearings
a31780.jpg

a31782.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 20:04:05 02/07/11) Take a look at this stand, it has slots in the mounting plates and has two course adjustment for height. Wheels have roller bearings.
Click to expand...

That's what I would like to do for mounting. I was thinking one straight and one angled. Do you find they match up with quite a few tractors? Do all tractors have the holes in the frame spaced the same up and down?
Ours actually has Acme thread on the casters, too. I wish it was a little longer. It is setup to adjust 2 holes worth of height, but it needs more.
 
Here is a set I made when I replaced the clutch on my 886. Worked great, just wish I hade a concrete floor where I did the clutch job at...
<a href="http://s44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/MH76/?action=view&amp;current=Camra250.jpg" target="_blank">
Camra250.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>
 
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