Pictures/Questions of my new Super C

Been eye'n this tractor for a month or two now. The owner of it is never usually around when I stop to look at it, so I left my number and talked to him about it a while back. Well today my Dad and I stopped by to look it over again, put a gallon of gas in it and touched the jumper cables to it and it fired right up. I finally decided I wanted it. The only catch is I have to sell one to afford this one, so I'm going to put one of my H's up forsale, and sell my C after I fix it. I drove it around for a little while, really like how it drives, so I called the owner on his cell and he met me at the house and we worked it out to pick it up from him Tuesday. I've always had kind of a soft spot for Super Cs, though I've never owned one. I had driven one years ago and liked it a lot, but my C that I bought last year just doesn't seem the same. So needless to say I'm pretty excited to pick her up.

Now, onto the questions.

1. This tractor has a dipstick near the oil filter. It looks factory, but none of my other Farmalls (H's, M's, C's) have had one, was this standard on the Super C?

2. The tractor is converted to 12v, but I do not think it's charging. The ammeter doesn't look like it's worked in a while, but it ran for about a hour and died, and when I went to fire it back up it barely turned over. Jumped it with my Jeep and it ran fine unless I pulled the cables, it would die. I suspect it's time to have the alt rebuilt? I haven't had a chance to put my multi meter to it and see.

3. I want to flush the fluid in the rear end. It's very quiet, but my last C developed a noise in the rear after a few months of owning it, so I want to make sure this one is full and water free. Should I use a 80/90 gear oil? The guy told me he updates all of his Farmalls with something called "hytran" I tried searching on here for it, but search sucks on my phone. How many gallons will the rear end hold and how do I not over fill it? I'm trying to find a service manual or I&T book online asap.

4. What do I run in the touch control unit? And how many quarts/pints?

Thanks so much for the help, I'm sure it's been covered time and time again, but it's hard for me to search with this internet.

Onto some pictures. Other than the charging issue, it's a great runner. Drove it around for a while. Paint is fair, tires are brand new, no smoke, noise, great oil psi. I like it a lot, and I gave what I feel is a more than fair price for it, so that helps.

Without a working charging system, the battery will run down to the point where there is not enough voltage to operate the battery style ignition system (if it had a magneto-no problem).
85-140 gear lube will be good choice for rear end lube; needs about 6 gallons if memory serves.
Any good hydraulic oil is fine for the Touch Control system; Hy-Tran is a great choice. Don't recall how much. Just fill to the bottom of the threads on the unit. Check the filter screen first before re-filling.
Dipstick...may be a replacement engine from a combine or ?? My 1951 SC has the petcocks on the oil pan.

If its got a didstick the engine has been changed. Since its been redone and now is12v theres probably other problems as a SC doesent ever need 12v to start unless starter goess weak then they change to 12v rather than get starter in shape. The rear end should have 90wt the HY-TRAN is way too lite unless its just going to be for playing around [arades rides ect. I would drain flush and refi;l with 90wt.

Can't tell for sure from the first pic., but it looks like there is a generator mounted vertically where the original gen. was mounted. As far as no charging---check all connections & wires before condemning the gen/ alt. Nice looking tractor.

Gene,
Super C Had a Dipstick as an Option !

I Have One with a Dip Stick under the Oil Filter!

Check Out a Parts Manual at Case IH and You will Find a Photo of it on the Parts Page of the Engine!

Cliff S

(quoted from post at 08:26:30 01/31/11) Can't tell for sure from the first pic., but it looks like there is a generator mounted vertically where the original gen. was mounted. As far as no charging---check all connections & wires before condemning the gen/ alt. Nice looking tractor.

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It looked like that at first glance, but it's an alternator... just the different shades of the aluminum end caps and body make it look like it's vertical.
Nice looking tractor, but too bad it doesn't have a Fast-Hitch.

I would use HyTran in the rear end. International recommended it in anything with a TA. Their rear ends wern't any different than the ones without a TA and they worked just as hard.
HyTran is the CNH version of trans/hydraulic fluid. Hence the smashing together of the two words. John Deere calls theirs HyGuard or something like that. I use it in my stuff when I refill. Go to TSC or Farm and Fleet when it is on sale and buy it up. For one thing it is less oils to keep around the farm!

Thanks guys. He said he bought the tractor from the original owner, who he knew quite well, and the guy used it VERY rarely around his shop. He said the tires are the only thing that has been replaced aside from the updated 12v. Said the original owner converted it to 12v to make it easier to jump, charge, or start since he only used it like twice a year. Since that way he could jump it off just about any car/truck/tractor as the battery would usually drain sitting in the barn for long periods of time.

I don't know what other "Problems" there could be, but it seems to run good, have good power, and great oil psi, so hopefully it will be alright.

I too wish it had a fast hitch, but I'm probably going to put the 3 point off of my C onto this tractor, since almost all of my stuff is 3pt anyways. I did want a fast hitch because I've always thought they were pretty neat..but I really couldn't pass up the deal we worked out.

I forgot to mention it does have the two petcocks in the pan, as well as the dipstick on the pass side under the oil filter.

Petcocks are on the drivers side, dipstick pass side. Sorry for the confusion..stupid edit button doesn't work.

85-140 Gear lube in the trans 9as Wayne indicates), hytran in the hydraulic system. Hytran is OK in the rear, but will leak easier, and be more noisy. Jim

Not sure what he is asking, but those rear shoes are worth at least $800 if purchsed new, or if you had to purchase replacements. Tire shops are quite proud of those 11.2-36's, and are very hard to find used (at least in this neck of woods). Some put 12.4's on C's and Super C's, however I was reluctant to do so as I believe they are some taller, and would increase ground speed which was something I did not want for field work. Looks like a good solid tractor that appears to have been shedded all it's life.

On refilling the Touch Control hydraulic block,
1- while empty and BEFORE you re-fill the block, pull out the filter and check it. It could be dirty, but worse, after this many years, many are cracked or riddled with holes, so they don"t filter at all, not to mention where did the missing pieces go to in a closed hydraulic system ?

2-purge the air out of the system by working the levers back & forth about 10 times, then re-check level

(quoted from post at 18:49:21 01/31/11) On refilling the Touch Control hydraulic block,
1- while empty and BEFORE you re-fill the block, pull out the filter and check it. It could be dirty, but worse, after this many years, many are cracked or riddled with holes, so they don"t filter at all, not to mention where did the missing pieces go to in a closed hydraulic system ?

2-purge the air out of the system by working the levers back & forth about 10 times, then re-check level

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Thank you. The Touch Control temp gauge doesn't work, so I plan to replace that at the same time that I check the filter and refill the unit.

(quoted from post at 18:44:42 01/31/11) Not sure what he is asking, but those rear shoes are worth at least $800 if purchsed new, or if you had to purchase replacements. Tire shops are quite proud of those 11.2-36's, and are very hard to find used (at least in this neck of woods). Some put 12.4's on C's and Super C's, however I was reluctant to do so as I believe they are some taller, and would increase ground speed which was something I did not want for field work. Looks like a good solid tractor that appears to have been shedded all it's life.

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I brought her home tonight. I feel I got a very good deal for it. The price I paid wasn't a whole lot more than what the tires themselves would cost new. Probably unload her out of the trailer tomorrow or this weekend. Susposed to get hit with a nasty storm tonight/tomorrow.

I HAVE A 230, SAME AS YOUR [C] TRACTOR. IT HAS A DIP STICK ALSO. [CAN"T REMEMBER IF WENT NUMBERS TO LETTER OR VICE VERSA]. DON"T YOU HATE WHEN THEY CHANGE TO 12V, & DON"T HOOK UP EVERYTHING CORRECT/PUT ON JUNK YARD PARTS.

As for the Hytran not being heavy enough hum bug. That is what is in all the newer tractors since the early 60's with no problems. Even my 806 has worked like a dog for years on plows, disc's ,even on my 24ft vibra shank last spring. To finish that job when the 1466 lost the hub connection on the clutch.

(quoted from post at 03:55:07 02/01/11) As for the Hytran not being heavy enough hum bug. That is what is in all the newer tractors since the early 60's with no problems. Even my 806 has worked like a dog for years on plows, disc's ,even on my 24ft vibra shank last spring. To finish that job when the 1466 lost the hub connection on the clutch.

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Do you guys think Hytran would be better for the winter, since every day is like -10 here??

(quoted from post at 05:55:11 02/01/11)

(quoted from post at 03:55:07 02/01/11) As for the Hytran not being heavy enough hum bug. That is what is in all the newer tractors since the early 60's with no problems. Even my 806 has worked like a dog for years on plows, disc's ,even on my 24ft vibra shank last spring. To finish that job when the 1466 lost the hub connection on the clutch.

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Do you guys think Hytran would be better for the winter, since every day is like -10 here??

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Yes.

(quoted from post at 06:10:37 01/31/11) If its got a didstick the engine has been changed.

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I looked today. The engine block is stamped C-123 366204 R3..is this correct for a Super C!?

That is a later block. The Super C block is 354898 R1. That explains your dip stick.

(quoted from post at 19:53:04 02/01/11) That is a later block. The Super C block is 354898 R1. That explains your dip stick.

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No kidding? Weird..what was this engine out of? And did it make any more power than the 354898 R1?

Probably a 200 or 230, don't know if it was originally in both or not. You'd need to dig through the parts catalog. It might have been a replacement block. Date code might tell you. Powerwise, it will depend on what is in it and on it. One C-123 block is about the same as any other C-123 block.