Which plugs in an M and needle valve question

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
First of all what plugs do you guys like to run in an M that doesn't get worked much. I bought the tractor last summer and it has a really old set of Champion D16y plugs in it now. The other thing is the needle valve. I rebuilt the carb and the needle valve that I got wants to hang up in the seat all the time. It is the type with the rubber tip on it. Anyone else have issues with this and what did you do about it. Thanks.
 
you can run the d-18y or d-21y, or in autolite plugs, 386, 388 is a little hotter. also autolite 3116 or 3118.
 
The needle valve problem you are experiencing isn't uncommon. Buy a CIH needle valve & seat seems to help but still isn't a cure-all. I've had brand new ones cause problems. If you get one that works for very long feel fortunate. I think it is a combination of the vicon used on the tip & today's unlead / ethanol gas.You might try adding some lead substitute to your gas, may or maynot help. We've just gotten to the point where we shut the gas off at the sediment bulb housing whenever we shut the engine off. PIA if your using your tractor much but it works.

As for the plugs, I gave up on Champions about 5 years ago and switched to Autolite after running Champions for over 50 yrs. 386s seem to be the most recomended but I still had some fouling issues with them so called Autolite. The tech I talked to recomended 3116s for the IH 4 cylinder engines, said 386s were for the 6 cylindwer engines. Since switching to the 3116s we have had any problems with plug fouling. I have an M, 2 SMs & a SMTA. The tractors are "toys, don't use them to farm with other than on augers unloading corn & beans from bins
 
(quoted from post at 05:22:35 01/21/11) First of all what plugs do you guys like to run in an M that doesn't get worked much. I bought the tractor last summer and it has a really old set of Champion D16y plugs in it now. The other thing is the needle valve. I rebuilt the carb and the needle valve that I got wants to hang up in the seat all the time. It is the type with the rubber tip on it. Anyone else have issues with this and what did you do about it. Thanks.

I've found that needle valves, and the seats, have a residue on them left over from the manufacturing process. If you spray both pieces generously with aerosol carb cleaner before you install them, you will not experience any sticking problems. If you want to take it one step further, spay a little silicon spray lube on both pieces after you use the carb cleaner and both pieces are dry.

Autolite 388s are the pluf of choice for a tractor that sees very little use, unless that tractor has a magneto, and then you want to use the Autolite 3116s.
 
Baelee, I like AC and Autolite, too. I like metal tip needles. But, a new needle should not hang up. Check to see if your float is hanging up on the inside of the carb bowl, or if the float's arm is twisted slightly out of square.
Best Regards,
Charlie
 
Spark Plugs.
Many people stay away from Champion plugs
www.autolite.com will give you the recommended plug.
The Autolite 386 & 388 plugs are resistive plugs. For your M, Autolite says to use the 3116 non-resistive.
I too have switched from Champion to Autolite. I have had good results with the 3116 on my H.
K-Mo
 
Switching brands of plugs will do little , it is all about type and heat range of plugs. I always use champion, have for 55 years. A little lube on the tip of that needle valve may well solve your problem. A viton tip will always hold better than steel with less pressure from float. That is why they changed to them. IH 4 and 560's with their larger fuel tanks put a little more pressure on the needle valve than previous models and all the carbs leaked brand new so IH went to viton tip. Problem with the new one is quality control. The hole in seat is often times oblong and needs to be coined to work well.
Does ethanol affect them,possibly as I have found that it will harden the rubber hoses used on fuel lines in a year or two of use.
 

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