Super A 3 point mower or belly mower?

I have a super a with 3 point conversion and my lawnmower just cant seem to keep a transmission for more than 2 years so im going to start mowing with the Super A. I have a 3 point hitch on the tractor but I have never seen anyone hook up any 3 point impliment to the rear offset PTO of this tractor. Im sure the u joints will run fine at this angle but im looking for any info I can get. I would love to have a belly mower but they are exspensive and look hard to remove while im using the tractor for other things.
Thanks
 
my $.02 worth is to consider this. Not sure how many obstacles you need to mow around, but it is much easier to navigate and get close with a belly mower. It might be a bit more expensive initially, but the save on follow up trimming and agravation may pay off in the longer run.

IMHO.
 
Johnny, I have a super A with a wood 59 mower. you will not get a nice finish cut from a pull type mower the belly mower rides evenly among the wheels just like a lawn tractor. as Tom said a trailer mower will not be easy to get around in tight areas. I would put my belly mower up against a pull type finish mower any day. I have seen them from time to time on YT classifieds and on E-bay keep you eyes open. oldiron29
 
I have worn out a Woods L59 and have started on my second one on my Super A. The popularity of the Zero Turn mowers has decreased the demand for belly mowers. I think the L59 Woods would be your best choice. Dropping the unit is not too hard as long as you don"t remove the mounts. You still have your 3pt hitch for some other toys.
 
I cut 6 acres with an H that has a woods belly mower under it cuts real nice. I use a small (36") zero turn to trim after cutting with the H.
 
With the belley mower you have the hitch for other tasks and you dont need to remove the mower. Just what tasks are you using the tractor for as thats the advantage of the belley mower you still have the drawbar for pulling stuff.
 

I've used a rear 3 pt. 6' mower behind a IH 140 for 30 yrs and it works great. It has 4 wheels (woods rm 600) and cuts very even. Still use the same pto shaft and the u joints hold up fine. I also have a cub with L59 belly mower and it kicks up a lot more dust in your face since your sitting over the mower.
 
All this talk about cutting grass, you must be getting spring fever early. :) I just plowed 2 feet of snow... I mow about 5 acres with an H and woods mower too. Either way in the long run, you"ll save money over an MTD. My MTD has been demoted to trimming duty. Every year I was putting money in it, specifically spindles. As far as removal, I think it"s as easy as an MTD. Two bolts on the rear mount, the lift chain, and the belt. Heavier yes, but more room to work too. These belly mowers are not like your box store mowers. They lift alot higher, so they really don"t get in the way. Now I"m not gonna plow a field with it on, but I"ve skidded a few logs and didn"t take the mower off. A Super A would be an ideal belly mower tractor IMO. Shawn
 
looks like a belly mower might be the best way to go, i have a small pond and quite a few trees to mow around. I realy dont use the tractor for anything except grading my driveway and moving dirt every now and then with my box blade.
 
I vote for a belly mower. You get a better "finish" than with rear mower.

One limitation of a Super A with mower is lack of live PTO.

Every time you press the clutch, the mower is going to stop, but only after carrying you 10-20 feet as the blade momentum drives the transmission through the PTO shaft.

You need to be VERY careful mowing up to objects. Press the clutch well ahead of time, and make sure you have an "out" if the mower doesn't wind down in time.

I mowed with a Cub for four years, and finally got sick of trying to maneuver it around trees and other obstacles. Last spring I bought a Husqvarna conventional lawn tractor with 22HP engine, 46" deck, and hydrostatic transmission. It moves faster, turns shorter, and cuts better. Plus I cruise under the low branches, instead of eating them for lunch.
 
JOhnny, one last thing to consider, if you are going to invest in a regular mower, buy the best that your pocketbook can afford. Most of the Home Depot or Lowes mowers are NOT build for longevity if regularly used on large plots of landscape. You need to look at the mower equation with an eye towards the "right tool for the right job".

I buy Murry push mowers for trimming with the idea in 2 years or so, I replace them.......because they wear out. However, the low cost of investment, I am ok with that. $200 every 2 years is ok with me. I could buy a Honda or a Toro for $600+, but I can afford the $100 per year better as an initial investment. With that said, I also don't worry that at the end of the 2nd year, I need to buy a new one.

Balance your ability to invest against what work you are requiring the mower to do.
 
Totally agree with Tom. While very good points are made regarding non-live pto, height of the tractor, and hitting branches, consider what the tractors main purpose will be, the amount of acreage it will be maintaining, and its economic efficiency over a period of several years.
The non live PTO is something you'll get used to. The mower does have a tendency to "push" the tractor forward, with the clutch depressed, due to the momentum of the spinning blades. It's nowhere near as drastic as a brush hog, where a overrunning clutch is essential. Don't get scared off because of a non-live PTO. Just keep it in mind when you're mowing around your pickup.
If you're mowing 4 or more acres, and intend to live on (and mow) that property for the rest of your life, the SA will be more cost effective, efficient to run overall, and more versatile. Try skidding logs with a craftsman... Now if you're mowing an orchard, or under 4 acres, a conventional rider might make more sense. I have a 54 inch conventional mower that I now exclusively use for trimming. On my 5 acre lawn, the woods mower on my H, will cut mowing time substantially. But, I don't have really any trees. There's a few bushes around the house, and thats where the conventional mower outperforms the H.
As Tom said, a push mower is one thing, as it's a relatively cheap investment. New Craftsman garden tractors are pushing $3000. You can buy a brand new woods mower for your SA for less money. With proper maintenance, I'll put my money on your SA outlasting any modern lawn and garden tractor. Shawn
 
One other factor to consider is cost.

Woods 59 mowers can be tough to find at all, let alone in good condition. You can still get them new but you're looking at $3500+ for the mower, which will still be installed on a 60 year old tractor.

You can get a real nice NEW commercial-duty conventional riding mower for $3500.

Sure, you can't skid logs with the Craftsman, but you have the A to do that. Plus, you don't have to drag the mower through the woods (or take it off) when you do decide to go skidding logs.
 
If I end up not being able to fix my mower and have buy another im gonna just get something with low hours and used, I only have about 2 acres that get mowed so the size of the mower isnt a huge concern but I do mow my yard twice a week. im just not sure if the belly mower is gonna be practical. Also the sterring on the SA is getting really... really... sloppy
 
have a 1948 Farmall C with L59 woods mower both in good shape for sale. maybe we can discuss something. c has been overhauled and barn stored for past 5-6 years. 2 years on overhaul. both tractor and mower are in good condtion. located in Ohio. photos available upon request. tom
 

I mow about 5 acres with a 3 point RM59 Woods. I can't complain about the cut at all. I'm using it behind a Ford 8N and love the setup as it drops fast when I need to use other implements. With back neck and knee problems a belly mower would mean having to have another tractor.....hey wait.....maybe the belly mower is the way to go!

Honey......about mowing the yard.......


Rick
 
(quoted from post at 19:32:02 01/18/11) have a 1948 Farmall C with L59 woods mower both in good shape for sale. maybe we can discuss something. c has been overhauled and barn stored for past 5-6 years. 2 years on overhaul. both tractor and mower are in good condtion. located in Ohio. photos available upon request. tom

Im sorry a farmall c will be way to big for my needs, the super a is already overkill but my grandpas dad bought it new in the 50's and he told me I can never sell it, so I figured I might as well use it!
 
I, also find lack of LPTO, & live Hydraulic lift, to be a real good reason to look into a Cub Cadet, or forgive me, a good JD garden mower with 54-62" deck. will do more, much easier, & comfortable, than the old Farmall. I know, I use my H with a L306 belly mower, and can,t change gears until blades stop. Won,t lift with clutch out.many little issues that have me using my Cub Cadet more & more. Just get the H out to PLAY!!!
 

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