stuck 460D

First off, I'd like to thank the many who have given me advice on my 59 farmall 460D.
The head is off and the stuck piston/sleeve as well as the rest of the pistons are out.
The head is at the machine shop, pressure checked okay and needs a valve job and a couple new valves and the pistons will get new rings and bearings.
I'm now on the crank.
My question is how to clean up the journals some without pulling the crank, and is it possible to change the main bearings without pulling the crank, or should I leave them alone.
Thanks
Tracy

Tracy, Is the engine still in the tractor or is it out on an engine stand???
If it is out then turn the engine over it all the work is easily done if it is still in the tractor, Then you will be doing a LOT of work while on your back! The journals can be cleaned up using Emory cloth strip. just take a 1 ft length and drape it over the journal and pull the Emory clothe back and forth as if you were pulling a shine clothe across the toe of your dress boots. Do this from different directions to dress up the entire journal. Then Mic each to determine what is your next step....having to pull the crank to have the journals and mains ground or can you go back together.
The mains loosen all,, 3 or 6 good turns then one at a time take a main cap off, you should be able to spin out the old and spin in the new top part set in place the new bottom with main cap leave loose, repeat on 2nd, then 3rd, then 4th ect,ect. After all are in place,,, then slowly take up the slack. Making sure all parts are in the right place after you get it all snugged up the one at a time take of the caps, put in a small piece of plasti-gauge to check the amount of clearance.
I would have pulled the engine had it been me, For If you are not positive about the condition of the crank it may be to do over later I am afraid!!
I encourage you to get the engine out and do this work from the top not the bottom! let gravity work with you not against you. I am sure I may have forgotten something maybe someone will add or correct if I have advised incorrectly.
Hope this helps
Later,
John A.

best to check the mains with plastigage . if you have over .004 clearance , will require brgs. at least. you will still need to "mic" the crank to find total wear.
whats the rod journals look like that you need to clean them up. could use 600 or finer emery cloth that would polish them a bit. best is to leave alone if they look good.

John
The engine is still in the tractor. I bought it with a stuck engine and it has been setting for some time. was told the original reason for the tractor being down was a bad starter, but can't verify.
Now that I know the head is good, I thought I would treat this as an inframe and at least get the tractor running. I'd hate to pour a bunch of money and effort in to the engine to find out the trans or something else is out.
Thank you for your advice and I will keep all poste
Tracy

Tracy, Since you are down this far it would not be too much trouble to go ahead and split the tractor, Because this tractor is 51 yrs old, might as well put in a new Clutch, Pressure Plate, Throw-out Bearing, and chances are it needs a new TA while you are there. The rear ends had problems when the 460/560 were the top of the Hp food chain.
Rear ends that were up dated later have a small equilateral triangle ( A Delta mark) stamped after the Serial #. I would not suspect rear end problems at all but the C, P.P., T.o.B. & T.A., I would expect needs to be replaceed. Since to do this one needs to split the tractor it just makes working on the engine easier. something to think about.
Later,'
John A

The rear main bearing can be change with the engine installed but it is easier if the engine is out. The rear main cap also hold the rear main seal. You also need to get the cap sealed between the seal and the rubber plugs.

If you are going to plasti-gauge the mains with the engine installed you will need to put upward pressure on the crankshaft. If you do not hold the crank tight against the upper insert you get a false reading that shows less than the actual clearance.

This tractor has the triangle after the serial number and must have been updated. I am really torn on how far to go into this tractor. Any thoughts on what this tractor would be worth if I go ahead with splitting and replacing clutch t/a and so forth

Tracy, Since you were in process of an In-frame overhaul pulling the engine will not be a large dollar out lay, mainly just time and labor. I am sure you can put together a splitting stand with odd steel components, I have seen Old IH, JD frame rails used as part of the supports. Channel iron, box tubing and such. Maybe borrow something from a neighbor or repair shop!
Since your tractor was up dated long ago I seriously doubt if there are any problems there in.
O would remove the deck, ONLY to drain, wash out, and inspect for wear or loose parts, Replace deck, fill with 90 wt and be done with it.
Check for metal filings in the bottom of rear end.
Not knowing what you paid for the tractor, Its options,and condition it is hard to tell you what to do. What do you intent to do with it, make a loader tractor, Farm with, or just a parade tractor????
Inspection of rear end might save you a real problem down the way after you get the motor back together. But I do think lifting the deck off to inspect it is worth the time and effort, and cork gasket.
You very well may be able to save the C, PP, after inspection, Have the TA Checked out or replaced is more critical.
You bought a 51 yr old Dead Tractor, so it is hard to know when and where to start and stop, On what Has to be done and what can wait a while,,, even thought it means deep surgery later! My # is 512-577-3838 if you would like to visit. Hope this helps. Holler if you like, I will be glad to visit, I hate typing.
Later,
John A.

Do not use 90 weight transmission oil unless you have no TA, no power steering. and no hydraulic system. TAs do not like heavy oil and the hydraulics and the transmission share a common reservoir so you need a fluid like Hytran.