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IH 300U Hydraulic Pump

I

IndyPung

Member
Hey all,

Couple questions on the hydraulic pump on my IH 300U. My tractor has a carbureted engine and my original pump part number is 363779r94. My seals were leaking on my pump and getting hydraulic oil in the distributor housing. So I took off the pump and took it apart and sure enough the seals look pretty bad. I want to just get a new gasket and ring package and put it back together, but before I do, my questions are these:

1. The walls of the pump body where the gears spin are slightly rough. You can"t really see it but you can feel it if you rub your finger over it. Will this be an issue? Obviously perfectly smooth is preferred but I"m not sure how much tolerance this pump will have. The actual gears look good.

2. If the above is an issue, am I better off leaving it as it is or attempting to smooth it out with emery cloth or something similar?

3. Assuming it"s worth it to get the gasket kit and rebuild it, any idea of a good place to get the gasket kit? I didn"t see any available from this site.

Thanks.
Ben
 
Is your pump aluminum.

I took mine to a hydo shop that only worked on aluminum pumpls and was told it was too warn to rebuild and had to be replaced.
If I had it to do again I would try one of those two part expoxy titanium liquids. (I have fixed several belt pulleys with it and it dries smooth as water.)

If you still have good pressure I would just get gaskets and maybe smooth out a little.

There are folks here that will tell you what you need.

Dell
 
I got the gasket/seal kit for my 300U from Case a few years ago without any problem. If you go that route make sure you take the number off of the pump you have as according to the dealer there were a lot of versions of the pump and some of the parts are not interchangeable.You can probably get just the seals from NAPA of they can match the number off the seal.
 
I don't think the pump is aluminum. It's pretty heavy for it's size. I'm thinking some kind of polished steel or something. If I was going to smooth it out what would I use to do that? I'm assuming I shouldn't use normal emery cloth since it seems like that would scratch it up to much. My pressure is still fine as far as I can tell. It was more a leaking issue than a power issue.
 
Which pump do you have? The number on mine is 355 515 r95 which according to the parts manual is an option off of the 363 779 r94. According to the manual the gasket kit I would need is 363 783 r94, but I can't find that thing anywhere online. Do remember if you got a gasket kit with the original part number or if they were just able to substitute in some other kit????

Also, in the parts manual it's showing a spring for the bearing cover in the diagram, but my pump didn't have one when I took it apart (or else it was in such bad shape it basically disinigrated). Did your pump have a spring as the picture shows?

Thanks.
Ben
 
OK, sorry, I'm confusing myself here. In my manual I have two pumps that can go on a gas tractor, and one of them has my pump number, and one has a different number with my number as "optional", whatever that means. So, I think I've been looking for the wrong part numbers here. The part number I actually need is 356888r92. According to the parts manual, it should come with the seals so hopefully I don't have to have NAPA match them up for me. Hopefully I can find this on on the internet....
 
Call around a little to local parts stores and ag dealers. If they can't help ask if they know of a hydraulic repair shop within driving distance.
Take the pump, number or parts page with you.
Sounds like you can just clean the pump up a bit, add new gaskets or o rings and you're good to go.

Dell
 
If the tips of the gears were touching the housing it needs to have at least bushings put in it. They might need to be manufactured by a machinist to match the old bushings. If the shaft runs in the housing, a bushing could be made, but is more difficult. If the roughness is from a little trash being scraped through, it might be just fine to leave it alone. The clearance on the gears to housing is usually less than .001" and if you remove more material, you lower pressure. I would remove any burrs or snags, but leave the basic surface alone. Jim
 
I went down and played with it a little more this morning and there doesn't seem to be any slop in the bushings or in the housing. I can't force the gears to touch the side so I can only assume that the roughness is from trash going through over time. The clearance looks to be pretty consistent all the way around. Also, I checked the tips of all the gears and there are no nicks or burs that would lead me to believe that the teeth were hitting the side. Given what you say, I think I'm just going to clean it up, try to find new seals and gaskets for it, and see what happens. Thanks for your help.

Ben
 
(quoted from post at 15:59:45 01/08/11) I don't think the pump is aluminum. It's pretty heavy for it's size. I'm thinking some kind of polished steel or something. If I was going to smooth it out what would I use to do that? I'm assuming I shouldn't use normal emery cloth since it seems like that would scratch it up to much. My pressure is still fine as far as I can tell. It was more a leaking issue than a power issue.
Click to expand...
All you will do if you sand or emery the gear pockets is create more internal leakage. If the pump was working okay before, except for the seal leak, I'd reseal it and try it. However, part of the seal leak may be because the shaft bushings are worn so the shaft is "wiggling" around. If the shaft bushings (I'm assuming bushings and not needle bearings because that's what most gear pumps have) are not worn, just re-seal it.
 
maybe I shouldn't respond because I know nothing about this pump, but I did want to mention that in many gear type pumps the pressure is formed [i:fbad834e06]between[/i:fbad834e06] the gears as they mesh, not around the outside...


just wanted to mention that in case it shed a little light somewhere... If it is bogus info ...I apologize
 
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