Brakes !!!! Won't Shift???

Tried all suggestions on alinging shift rails on 300 still won't free wheel or roll in netural, Still goes in gear but won't come out, with out a lot of force on shifter. How would the brakes keep it from shifting? Tractor will move in gear when running and set and run in netural but will not come out of gear easy or roll in netural?it acts like its in gear? What next? Thanks

Not rolling while in neutral sounds like the brake could be dragging. The incorrect adjustment of the clutch and TA linkage added to dragging brakes could cause the symptoms your are describing.

My 300 likes to lock up the brakes as well after setting awhile. The reason for not being able to shift is the pressure does release on the transmission if not allowed to roll to a stop. The brakes hold back pressure on the gears.

My brakes will usually release when I back it up a little. Will it roll backwards if pointed uphill.

Not saying thats what it is for sure but it sure sounds like it to me.

Gary

Your TA clutch isn't releasing when you press the clutch pedal.

In order to shift, BOTH clutches have to disengage, the main and the TA.

If the TA clutch doesn't release, the TA unit binds up and the tractor won't roll in one direction. It is also very hard to shift.

(quoted from post at 22:54:18 01/06/11) Tried all suggestions on alinging shift rails on 300 still won't free wheel or roll in netural, Still goes in gear but won't come out, with out a lot of force on shifter. How would the brakes keep it from shifting? Tractor will move in gear when running and set and run in netural but will not come out of gear easy or roll in netural?it acts like its in gear? What next? Thanks

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You need to take the good advice given by Jim, Owen and Gary and completely eliminate the brakes as the source of your problem before going any further.

Dell

I had same problem,the short linkage from clutch to t/a needs to go longer by two or three turns longer longer,try that,its a ten minute fix,if that works and t/a starts to slip then its time to do some clutch work( change)

If the rails are aligned, it is in neutral. (unless the shift forks are bent or broken.)
if you can run the engine with the clutch out in neutral, it is infact in neutral.

Two issues remain.

If it is very difficult to roll (free wheel/coast) when in neutral there is something way wrong in the final drives/bearings in the trans/final drives, or brakes.

To eliminate the brakes as an issue, loosen the housings till a 1/4" gap is visible between the housing and the tractor. This will release the brakes no matter what, but not disassemble them. If it now rolls free, (do not drive it this way!!!!!!) the brakes are a part of the problem, and need cleaning and sanding with 250 grit paper in a non directional pattern, along with the expanders being cleaned and ball ramps polished some, to make them function.

There remains the issue of the TA

Getting it out of gear is supposed to be easy.
The TA clutch is supposed to release fully just after the Master clutch is released.
There should be clear visible motion of the TA throwout bearing when the clutch pedal is pushed to the limit. When let out, the TA clutch Throwout bearing should just pull off of the fingers, assuring the clutch is fully engaged.

Any drag on this clutch (not releasing) will jamb the gears.

The TA assembly could be deteriorating and its bearings could be going out (info from your original post about the case moving) this could be a source of additional misalignment, and friction in the TA/transmission front input shaft.

Best of luck, Jim

...If it now rolls free, (do not drive it this way!!!!!!) the brakes are a part of the problem, and need cleaning and sanding with 250 grit paper in a non directional pattern, along with the expanders being cleaned and ball ramps polished some, to make them function...

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For my reference
Just scuff the friction material???
How do you usually polish the balls and ramps?
Spray all parts with brake cleaner and that is good? (unless you see more problems than that can handle?)

I use a dowel with a piece of 250 grit paper wrapped on it to polish the ramps, and a wire wheel to polish/clean the balls. wear pits in the ramps are very important to remove. If deeper than .005" I would replace the expander. Jim

Brakes are hard to maintain, they require work periodically, clear up rust out of balls & pockets, splines on shafts get notched ever so slightly, locating pads on outer edges of actuators need shined, only lube is graphite & little oil mix to make it stick in place of these areas, scuff disc pads will make them work better for awhile.

Oooh, forgot the big test:

PULL THE TA LEVER BACK.

If it shifts and rolls around now, then TA adjustment is your problem.

(quoted from post at 10:22:12 01/07/11) I use a dowel with a piece of 250 grit paper wrapped on it to polish the ramps, and a wire wheel to polish/clean the balls. wear pits in the ramps are very important to remove. If deeper than .005" I would replace the expander. Jim

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How about pits and wear on the balls? Is .005 anything that I would feel or is it even smaller than I can feel?

Small pits on the balls the size of salt grains with good flat smooth areas that are more than 80% of the total area (don't measure it) would be fine. Pits that have made the balls out of round are not acceptable. Ball roundness measured with a micrometer or caliper should be within .005" (opinion)
Grooves in the ramp that you can feel by dragging your finger up the ramp are in need of smoothing.
If they are so deep that machining is needed, different plates might be the answer. Jim