Common electrical mistake

R.J.Miller

New User
What is common to ALL cars,motorhomes,boats and
trailers is the use of unprotected terminals and
butt connectors.They WILL corroed in time.About
2 weeks I saw a beautiful 12 volt conversion and
new wires with cheep terinals.It almost made me
cry.It is the perfect place for condinsation and
voltage drop. What to do?
1.You can buy adhesive lined shrinkwrapped term.
at most autosupply stores.Yes,they cost more,but
they are WATERPROOF.
I perfer to buy shrinkwrap in bulk.Use a lighter
or heat gun.
2.Remove the sparkplug wire on any new car and there will be grease in the cap.This is grease that will not stop electrial passing but will stop corrosion.It is called DIELECTRIC GREASE.
I use it on gen.,starter lightswitch studs and
push on connectors.
Redues a year later are a pain in the ---
3.NEVER buy the $1.50 roll of black tape.It WILL
start to unwrap in a year an not protect and also
look bad.Spend the $4.00 for GOOD tape please.
Westmarine has a great web site with all kinds
of great ideas in there electrical section.
It is always the little things that lateron that come back to bite you and drive you nuts.
 
Solder and heat glue lined shrinktube is the is the best way. Im like you I hate butt connecter"s or any crimp on connector"s for that matter. I have never seen a Soldered and shrink tube with glue fail. Seen lot"s of butt connector"s fail.
 
I agree 100%. I'm an engineer by trade, but farmer by hobby. Solder is the only lasting connection. If my trailer lights do not work its the other persons truck. If someone else's trailer will not light on my truck, its the trailer. When I upgraded the cables on my 48V golf cart I used industrial crimp lugs and back-filled with solder then shrink.

I have several butane soldering irons that I use at work and home. One is a $25 Radio Shack pocket iron and the other is a Weller Porta-Sol that will do a battery cable. If people that crimp connectors used one, they would never go back.

As for tape... Nothing beats 3M Super 33 for adhesive tape and 3M 130 liner less splicing tape for bigger stuff covered with 33.

Thanks for the tips!
 

Great advice! I crimp on a connector (non insulated) solder and then shrink tube it every time. Did my boat trailer like that about 10 years ago. Now I live in the "Heart of the Lakes Area" of Mn on a farm. That means my boat trailer is in and out of the water all summer (sometimes multiple times a week). The only problem I've had sense the rewire is the broken tail light.....I bet one of my kids did that!!!! LOL, was my fault!

Rick
 
Dielectric grease DOES stop the passage of electricity. That's what the "di" in dielectric means. Di as in divide.

The grease works because the connectors push it out of the way ONLY where they make metal-to-metal contact. Grease fills all the nooks and crannies where moisture likes to sit and create corrosion.

Regular old grease would work just as well, though some greases might not be compatible with the materials used to make the connectors and wire insulation. Dielectric grease IS compatible with electronic components.
 

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