Farmall Super C - sheared gear teeth on hydraulic drive gear

brumik · Dec 28, 2010

I was using hydraulics, engine got Real rough sounding for a minute, than quieted down and ran real smooth. Then, hydraulics no longer worked. Figuring it was a gear problem, I removed hydraulic pump, looking in the hole, i see the bigger gear that drives the small gear on pump -- all the teeth were torn off the big gear.
Any idea what caused this?
How big a job is it to get to that gear? It looks pretty major to an amateur like me.
Thanks, Mav

State of Jefferson · Dec 28, 2010

Someone with more C experience than myself will chime in on this, but I had to replace the Cam gear(drives the hyd pump) on my SMTA this summer. It is kindof a big job, but not overly technical. Just a matter of un-bolting and bolting stuff. Whole front end of the tractor needs to come apart.
Shop around for the part. I ended up Getting mine from Draper Tractor in Washington.

Good luck.

Ben

gene bender · Dec 28, 2010

You need to remove radiator and then the steering sector so the front pulley can be removed then you can take off the front cover. Use a bearing seperator to remove the front pulley along with the pthree jaw puller so you dont break the pulley. If you dont have a way to support the tractor and have tools maybe you better not do it yourself or get someone who can help that has some experience.

Jim Becker · Dec 28, 2010

What Ben said pretty well covers the engine repair. While you are at it, you better see if there is some root problem in the hydraulics that caused it. You don't want to have it happen again as soon as you start it back up.

Do you have an unmodified Touch-Control system or has someone added an auxiliary valve or something of the sort? What exactly were you doing when the engine started to "act up"?

Andrew Z · Dec 28, 2010

Had the same problem this past summer. Not a bad job just a pain the rear. When you remove the front pulley you will need ample heat in order to get it to move. Also a little when putting the pulley back on.

Andrew

Marv · Dec 28, 2010

I bought a SC recently with the same problem. The previous owner did not keep hydraulic oil in the hyd, system and the pump froze up... same as you described. It sheared the teeth off the hyd.pump, idle gear and cam shaft gear. I think the hyd. pump froze up because it was not getting lubericated with hyd. oil. As mentioned before, the entire front of the engine will have to be removed. The chance of getting the crank pulley off and on without breaking it is about 50%. Good luck.

brumik · Dec 28, 2010

Well, a little while before this happened, i was carrying a load in the front bucket up a small incline. The tractor actually flipped very slowly on it's side. no damage to tractor. It was like slow motion. A little tug with my truck and chain, and it was back up. I wonder though' if it has something to do with this problem, maybe it caused an internal shift against the gears?? Because within about 5 - 10 minutes after the flip is when i noticed it. Coincidence? Or what?

Janicholson · Dec 28, 2010

The roll on its side did do it. It took contaminated material that was held down by gravity and put it back into circulation. Either in the gears, or the hydraulic pump. When it is apart, make sure everything is flushed clean, and clean the screen in the reservoir as well. One chip of crud will take out gears when they have no place for the chip to go. In a pump the gears also jamb, causing stripped teeth, or sheared Keys. Good luck. Sand the inside of the Pulley when it is off just enough to allow a medium press fit for install.
Do not heat it too much warmer than 200 degrees when reinstalling, or it will melt your new front seal. Jim

brumik · Dec 29, 2010

Thanks to all for the help.
There goes the wifes new disposal being installed.

Farmall Super C - sheared gear teeth on hydraulic drive gear

brumik

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State of Jefferson

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gene bender

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Jim Becker

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Andrew Z

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Marv

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brumik

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Janicholson

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brumik

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