Using an H with a three point hitch and a loader

holmesw · Dec 28, 2010

Hello. I have a super H with a bucket currently on it. Of course the bucket has two rams, 1 on each side. There is with the bucket on the tractor, one available port left for the three point hitch, which is fine, because I have only one ram on my three point hitch. With all of this hooked up to the pump When ever I use the three point hitch, the bucket will be going up down at the same rate. My goal is to keep the bucket on the tractor, and still be able to use the three point, yet I do not want to be trying to change the main controler. What should I do? My latest thought has been, could I put a hydraulic gate valve on each of the lines going to the bucket rams, then after lifting the bucket to the desired height shut the gate valves, and use the three point hitch normally. Would this keep the pressure to the bucket rams, and keep the bucket raised. I realise that it will probably drop some over time like any other hyraulic implement would, but would the general idea work?

Zachary Hoyt · Dec 28, 2010

That is what i do on my Massey 35. I am running a loader off the internal pump and when I want to use the hitch I shut the valve that allows oil into the loader lines. I have separate spool valves on the loader, but I don't see why your idea wouldn't work. Are you using a belly pump or a live pump on the engine? Do you have one way or two way cylinders on the loader? That would affect how you would have to do it, I think.
Zach

holmesw · Dec 28, 2010

I believe that they are one way cylinders on the loader, and the pump I believe is a belly pump, since it is operated when the clutch is engaged.

Zachary Hoyt · Dec 28, 2010

I would think you could put a shutoff right at the belly pump for the lines that go to the loader. Some people use one port for each cylinder in which case you'd need two shutoffs, others use a T and then you could just use one. If the cylinders are one way and only connected to the pump at the bottom of the cylinder then when the valves are closed the oil in the cylinders will stay in them and the control rod will be only controlling the 3 point hitch. If you have independent spool valves for the different functions it would be more complicated, but if you are controlling everything off the rod that angles down on the right hand side of the tractor I think this should do what you want done.
Zach

holmesw · Dec 28, 2010

Thanks alot. You have been very helpful, and I believe that this will work.

Wardner · Dec 28, 2010

Of course, the proper way is a two spool valve and you are probably aware of that but don't want to spend the money.

A cheaper alternative is a selector valve. It has one inlet and two outlets. A knob on the valve spool will let you choose what implement you want to use. Mount it so that it can be used from the operator's position.

Zachary Hoyt · Dec 28, 2010

That does sound a lot handier.
Zach

armand tatro · Dec 28, 2010

Like Wardner says there is only way to do this and that is to plumb in at least a 2 spool valve{altho a 3 spool would be better for the long haul} and enjoy the convence of not always having to mess with gate valves and what-not. It is going to take at least $100 plus your time to do it cheap and for a couple hundred more it will be done right! Also some of those water will sooner or later leak oil and you will have to deal with issue. Spend the money, do it right the first time and you will never regret it pluss your tractor will have more value. do it and enjoy. Armand

JakeE · Dec 28, 2010

had H i did that to put a shut of valve to the loader cylinders,and then divertidid to the back blade, made a hanger on each side of the front frame railes , would set the loader arms in it and then divert to the rear blade.had the tractor in northen michigan and pushed a ton of snow with it.

Stephen McCoy · Dec 28, 2010

A potentially inexpensive way to get a 2 or 3 spool valve is to salvage one off an old combine.

I recently got a 2 spool valve off an IH 915 combine for very little $$$.

It doesn't have handles or a place to add them so I'm making a mounting plate and my own handles for it.

In the end I'll have spent MUCH less than the $200.00 to $300.00 you might spend at Northern Tool or someplace like it.

Just my thoughts on the matter.

mkirsch · Dec 29, 2010

I suspect your plan is to go to Home Depot and pick up some inexpensive water valves for this purpose...

Hydraulic pressure, even on a low-pressure tractor like an H, is 10 times normal household water pressure.

Water valves are designed and rated for household water pressure, maybe 80PSI. Your H's hydraulic system will produce 800PSI.

You do the math...

holmesw · Dec 29, 2010

If I were to do it in this fashion, I would definitely put in a hydraulic gate valve, as I had already stated. The link is something like I would be looking at, only with a somewhat higher pressure rating. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200395426_200395426

DanR · Dec 29, 2010

DO NOT use a gate valve! Use a ball valve designed for use with hydraulics.
Not all ball valves are rated for this use.

Stephen McCoy · Dec 29, 2010

The "gate" valve that holmesw posted a link for is in actuality a ball valve.

It is, however, only rated for 600 psi.

jimmyjoe · Dec 30, 2010

http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/2071_lg.jpg Try this link.
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Using an H with a three point hitch and a loader

holmesw

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holmesw

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