Changing hydraulic oil in 460

My job this week is to change the milky hy-tran in my 460. Im hitting a few problems. First off, I pulled the huge plug under the axle but I only got 5-6 gallons out, does that sound right? I thought I was going to get 10 or 15. I just checked the side check plug a week or so ago and it was only 1/2 inch down so I know it was full. I thought that plug would empty the whole thing.

Then I saw another plug about half way between the huge drain plug and engine oil pan, pointing toward the front of the tractor. I pulled that one and only got another gallon or so. Does that sound about right?

Last, I saw one more plug just behind the engine oil pan. Its a plug in a small plate thats maybe 4 inches by 7 inches with IIRC 6 or 8 bolts that hold it on the cast iron. Well I tried to take out that plug and stripped the head off. Whats under that plate? Im thinking I should pull the plate off and get out the plug while the $100 of oil is still in the sealed buckets instead of the tractor. I dont want to tear into that plate though if there is anything that I can mess up under the plate. Im kinda on a time schedule and want to finish this up on Wednesday if I can because the weather is due to turn here in Wisconsin after that.

I looked in the very back of the tractor by the PTO to see if there was a drain plug there but didnt see anything, am I missing anything or is there no drain back there? I want to get as much of the milky oil out as I reasonably can because I cant afford to do this again any time soon.

I think the plate is the clutch inspection plate, and the plug you stripped off is for accessing the throwout bearing to grease it.

The 460 is an H-sized tractor, so the rear end sump will have closer to an H's capacity. IIRC, less than 10 gallons... almost think it's 5-7 gallons. 15 gallons is an M.

Is it cold where you are? There may be a bunch of ice in there taking up space.

460 holds 10 gallons.

Is that plate with the plug slopped towards the plug? If it is then it is not the clutch inspection plate, that is further forward. You can drop that plate to work on fixing the plug. Nothing should magically fall out (if something does you have problems that need to be addressed) you will just be out of a gasket. Probably $5 or so at CIH (or make your own if you have the stuff).

I would change the hyd filter before adding any of tha expensive oil.If that large pipe plug is out you may want to make shure the bolt in back of it is tight? Said bolt holds the gear in place that drives the gear on your hyd pump.After you CAREFULLY reinstall the filter the suction pipe to the pump may need to be resealed?? We used a Yamaha sealer called Yamabond and it worked very well!! I have learned much here!! Bud.

[color=blue:03a3edd362]Per the McCormick Farmall 460 Operators Manual: capacities

- Transmission and differential case (also reservoir for Hydra-Touch system) Approx. 10 gal.
...keep the lubricant up to the level of the cap screw opening in the hex head plug.

- Independent power take-off housing 2 qt.
Drain the rear unit and replace with approved lubricant each time the transmission oil is changed. Remove the drain plug, filler cap/vent plug and bushing and the level plug...refill to the height of the level plug.

Per the Preventive Maintenance Manual:

Clean the breather cap every 250 hours of operation...or more under...dirty conditions...wash in kerosene, dip in engine lubricating oil and replace after wiping off excess oil.

To drain the fluid from the pump and connecting tubes pull out the cable from the center socket on the distributor cap, turn the ignition key clockwise and press the electric starter button, turning the engine over very briefly.

FREEING THE SYSTEM OF TRAPPED AIR

Start the tractor engine and operate it at a moderate idle speed. With the filler plug or cover removed, slowly move the control handle or handles back and forth ten or twelve times through their full range of travel. This frees the system of trapped air. Then with the handles in the neutral position, stop the engine. If necessary add fluid up to the proper level in the transmission case, as instructed in the tractor Operators Manual.

Now my words:
There are three drain plugs. The large one you removed; the second, a forward facing plug - square headed - just behind the torque tube mating seam and the third is a recessed head plug on the underside of a sloping plate that runs crosswise to the tractor. This v-sloping plate is mounted using eight bolts; just pull this plug.

My first experience draining hytran fluid was on a sub-zero day in an unheated garage. You were smart and had enough oil pans (or a large one) nearby when you pulled that large plug first. Ok, now you know what happened to me; it was on my Farmall 340. I also had so much ice in the filter housing and in the v-shaped housing I had to get me some warmth in order to drain the system. As one older posted stated "...I could have made high-balls to drink with all that ice.

I'm hoping for continued cold and not this 40+ temps w/drizzle, rain and fog and it will reek havoc with our planned ski jumping tournament and cross-country ski race on Sunday, near Westby, Wisc. Ohhh so many hours of work and if this stuff comes in from the west...

Rick, what part of the Badger State. Good luck w/your project. Is it a Farmall or International?

On Wisconsin!

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rich , i would stongly suggest changing your filter also , its on the right side under the plate with six bolts, theres a metal screen and a paper filter , the plate is spring loaded so watch your feet when it comes off. in this cold weather any moisture will collect in the paper filter and freeze leaving you with no hyd or steering, ive had a couple 460s for years now and learned in minnesota weather to run a couple bottles of isopropyle in the hyd oil. good luck

Tonastoy, I forgot to mention that I would be replacing the filter too. Does the Heet do anything other than raise the freeze point of any moisture in the hy-tran?

Al L. thanks for copy pasting that for me and for adding your own thoughts. The plug head I stripped was on the V sloped piece with 8 bolts. I googled the casting number and it says its a PTO driven gear cover. Should be no problem pulling that cover so I can get it on the bench and get the plug out, correct?

Truth be told, you are giving me too much credit, the biggest bucket I could fit under there was a 3 gallon one because of the fast hitch linkages. Ya, I did it old school. Dropped the plug and let drain untill the bucket was full then got all oily hands putting it back in to switch buckets. Slushy oil but the big hole was no problem, the forward facing one would plug once in a while.

40s and rain stinks in the middle of winter but I kinda need it to thaw things out so it drains, thats why this is getting done this week. Hope the ski jumping goes OK. Im from over near Madison, just a ways north of it. Its a 59 Farmall, one of those tall ones but with a wide front (loader and a back blade also).

Bud DeLong, are you talking about a bolt in the pump and filter housing? Im really not following what you are refering to, I havent picked up a new filter yet so I havent pulled the cover yet either.

I have an M also and the 460 seems like a bigger machine so I keep forgetting that its based on the H and has less fluid. I guess getting out 7 gallons should be close, I think I read that some stays under the seat area. Given that and being a little low on the plug should be about right.

I know, old topic but maybe somebody is still watching...
Does this THIRD plug that you talk about connect with the same space as the other two plugs? Do I have to fill fluid separate or are they shared fluid?