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Farmall H hydraulic level

N

Narrowfarm

Member
Hello , I added a Saginaw 3 point hitch to my 1948 Farmall H.It has up and down pressure,dual cylinder and works good.I know i started with 6 quarts of 30 weight non detergent oil before the hitch was put on.I dont have a dip stick on my cap for the hydraulic pump,so i am not to sure of the level now.any ideas on how to make a dip stick to the original cap? the lenght of the stick and where the oil should be on the stick? thanks john
a28761.jpg
 
You will need an original to get the measurements. I'll measure one if you need it. Has there been extra pipe fittings added under the cap? You may have to make a two piece stick to get it under the gas tank.
 
With the hitch lowered all the way, just fill it up until you can see the oil in the neck.

For two-way operation, the system needs to be sealed anyway. Dipstick caps are vented, so you'd be squirting oil up under the gas tank if you did have one.
 
(quoted from post at 06:16:19 12/28/10) With the hitch lowered all the way, just fill it up until you can see the oil in the neck.

For two-way operation, the system needs to be sealed anyway. Dipstick caps are vented, so you'd be squirting oil up under the gas tank if you did have one.
Click to expand...

No, you still need the vented cap. There has to be someway for the system to be able to breathe. You do not need the dipstick though. If the cylinders for the 3 point do not have full travel, add oil one quart at a time until they do have full travel. With 2 way cylinders, there will always be as much oil going back into the reservoir as what is being pumped into the cylinders, and once there is enough oil in the system for the cylinders to be fully functional, there really is no need to add any more oil.
 
With the standard 3-1/4 inch long pipe nipple under the cap I remember 9.5 inches down as the original level. Could measure one when out to make sure. If using the standard fill vent opening on the liftall, you may want to install a short nipple and a 1/2 inch pipe tee on the drain opening and then route the return line from the operating valve to the tee. Install the drain plug in the other opening of the tee.
 
Rusty, I beg to differ with you about the venting of 2-way use of the Lift-
All system.
When I put the original style 2-way on my H back in the early 60's, the factory kit had a new brass valve that was to be installed in the top of the existing fill cap. Instructions with the kit said to open the brass valve when using as a 1-way system and close the brass valve when using as a 2-way system.
Happy New Year!
 
(quoted from post at 07:29:24 12/28/10) Rusty, I beg to differ with you about the venting of 2-way use of the Lift-
All system.
When I put the original style 2-way on my H back in the early 60's, the factory kit had a new brass valve that was to be installed in the top of the existing fill cap. Instructions with the kit said to open the brass valve when using as a 1-way system and close the brass valve when using as a 2-way system.
Happy New Year!
Click to expand...

I don't doubt it for a minute, but the system still has to be able to breathe somehow, otherwise pressure would build up inside when the ambient temperature rises, and a vacuum would result when the ambient temperature drops. There has to be a means provided to allow for compensation.
 
I have the original system on a M and it does have the brass valve on the fill cap. Original 2 way valve and quick disconnect. I agree that a raise in ambient temperature would increase the pressure slightly in a closed system. However when the temperature returns to 'normal' it cannot have a vacuum if it is indeed a closed system. If you have ever used the quick connect you know that a small amount of oil will be lost which I think would tend to release any built up pressure. The only thing I'm sure of is you will get your hands dirty. :p
 
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