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Zachary Hoyt

Well-known Member
I have just completed an agreement to buy this tractor for $800+$100 delivery from 45 miles away or so. The owner will deliver it next weekend. He says it last was run a year or so ago, and then he bought it off his neighbor and it has been sitting since. I am planning to take the loader off and keep it to use on my H if my main snow plowing tractor breaks down. Does anyone recognize the loader? I'm planning to part out the tractor. I feel a little bad to do that since it is fairly complete, but it seems like the best thing to do. I haven't seen the tractor in person but the seller seems very polite and reasonable and the photos are pretty good. It looks in the pictures like the hoses and cylinders may be in pretty good shape and I will be able to just bolt the loader up and go, butttttt, time will tell. How long should it take one person with another loader tractor to hook and unhook this loader? It looks to me like I should be able to drive right into it, but I'm not sure since I have never had one like this before. I don't plan to leave it on all the time if I am not using it. One other thing- the brake covers look different to me and I am wondering if they are something different, maybe disc brakes like would be on a late 52, or just different covers?
Zach
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That looks like the #31 I have on my H. I have lifted about a ton with mine, but it gets a little hairy. It will stop lifting just before the rear tires come off the ground.
As far as removal, yes you can drive right into it. You need to take the muffler off. I use a couple of large chunks of wood to rest mine on, undo the bolts and back away, no other machine needed, It takes about 15-20 minutes. If you plan to use it in cold weather, I would really recommend cleaning out the hydraulic system, checking for leaks and switching from 30 wt oil to Hytran or something similar (I use Ford hyd. fluid in mine because that's what my other tractor takes)
I have 1 set of wheel weights and no fluid in the tires. If I could find another set of weights, I would put them on. It will rob you of traction.
With a little practice, you can do anything with this loader that you can do with a modern one. Some things it will even do faster.
I just looked back at the photo and can see that the loader needs some repairs. If you need help with that, shoot me an e-mail.
 
The front bracket is some home made looking thing.That is the most important part as this keeps the loader straight with the tractor. I have one of these loaders on a 52 h granddad bought it new always done more than it should. I do not know how good it will be with those skinny cylinders may work ok.Between parting and scraping the tractor you may break even.
 
Thank you very much. What is it that you can see needs to be repaired? I can see that the assembly in front of the grill looks bent, but I am not sure how any of the loader is supposed to look, and I wouldn't know if there are parts missing.
Zach
 
You may be right, I will have to see how much it needs to get it going. I know I can get more money out of it in parts than whole, but it would be a better use of it to sell it whole, probably.
Zach
 
The assembly in front of the grille should stand up straight. there should be pieces of flat stock on each side running diagonally to the frame rails to hold it up. Also, the rod from the trip lever looks like it is folded back. With care, they can usually be straightened. A tree fell on mine a few years ago and I fixed it in about a half an hour. These are rugged old loaders.
 
I would part it.Doesn't make any sense in throwing $1000 or better into a $1200 dollar tractor.Factor out loader value of about $200 and the race is on to get $700 out of it.

Vito
 
I have sold about $1800 of parts out of this tractor since I bought it last February and still have the block and major castings left along with some odds and ends. I wrote down the amount for each item I sold as I went along, so I know the math is right. The seat, tank, rad., steering and grill were all scrapped since they were so badly beaten up and I put the weights on my H.
Zach
 
Thank you very much. I can make the bars that run to the side rails, and I can stand the frame up. I don't think it has a bucket, just the blade as far as I know. I only plan to use the loader to lift logs so that a wagon can be backed underneath and to plow snow, so I shouldn't need a bucket. I appreciate your offer of help if I get confused.
Zach
 
If it's a super I certainly won't part it unless it has major problems. The hood is a sorry specimen, but I imagine someone might pay $10 or $20 for it to cut a piece out of to weld in their hood.
Zach
 
Yea I definetly wouldn't part it out. If it's a super H and you wanna part it out I would be interested in just taking the whole thing off your hands. I've been looking for a super H or an M thats fairly inexpensive
 
Do the same thing myself with some of them.I would never part out a low production or rare tractor.The rest of them oh well.Remember the sum of the parts is greater than the whole.

Vito
 
Looks like IH disc brakes. Pics not good enough to be positive. If 3 bolts hold the covers on it would be the lambert disc brake attachment. If 5 bolts it would be a late H or SH unless there's transplanted parts involved. If its a H with the IH disc brakes it would be more rare than a SH.
Made in Jan. or Feb. 1953.
 
zach, the tractor looks pretty complete. myself, i wouldnt part it out. a mig welder and a hammer and dolley will get the hood back in shape, see if it will run and use it as a snow plow . looks to have a block heater on it too. build a cab for it, set of chains and some weights.... snow plowin machine!!!
 
Thank you, that's very interesting. I will post as soon as I find out what it is. I didn't know about the different disk brakes.
Zach
 
I already have an H with weights, loaded 14.9/38 tires with chains and a good running engine, so I'm figuring I may be ahead to move the loader onto that tractor and then figure out what to do with this one. I'll bear in mind about the hood, I need to find a local friend with good sheet metal skills like yours. I haven't found the block heater yet, which side is it on? Thank you very much.
Zach
 
I took an IH loader off an M a couple years back. They are not difficult to remove especially with an extra pair of hands. My loader is complete and was working,still sitting in the woods where I removed it if anyone is interested.
 
zach, looks like on the left side of the tractor just behind the grille about where the governor is is a big cannister with a hose going to it. either is a block heater, or maybe a power steering resevoir. here is a pic of my h with a home made cab. i have a blade that mounts in place of the manure bucket for snow plowing. chains are off the tractor in this pic. i have heat hauser canvas for it too. toasty warm plowing snow!!

<a href="http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o234/glennster_01/?action=view&amp;current=DCP01874.jpg" target="_blank">
DCP01874.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>
Untitled URL Link
 
Agree with glenster that it looks like a coolant heater. Looks like a H carburetor or at least the choke rods going to the same side of carburetor as a H. Pictures kind of dark. Another thing is if the tractor is all original with the IH disc brakes, the original starter used a pull rod to operate on both a late H serial 391358 and higher and the SH also.
 
I am curious why you say it is a 31 not a 30? I would like to be more knowledgable in IHC products.
 
(quoted from post at 09:19:39 12/27/10) I am curious why you say it is a 31 not a 30? I would like to be more knowledgable in IHC products.
Click to expand...

The bar that runs across the loader from one side to the other, located directly in front of the steering wheel, sits flat on a #31. You can actually set a beverage container on it. That same bar on the #30 sets vertical. That little difference is the easiest way for me to know if it is a #30 or a #31.
 
Thanks, I'll get some better pictures as soon as it comes. May get it Thursday night, but I guess it depends.
Zach
 
That is a neat cab, very stylish roof line. I may try to make one someday, but I'll have to make mine a little extra tall so I don't hit my head. Thanks for the photo. It looks like you have a different make of loader, I know I have seen those before with the curved part in front but I can't recall what they are.
Zach
 
Do you know what years the two models were built? I have seen
several references in the archives to your 31, it sounds like you get
a lot of use out if it.
Zach
 
Thanks, that's good to know. I'll get some better pictures and a serial number as soon as it comes. I saw once what you can do with a photo and it was quite amazing.
Zach
 
Thanks. I am baby sitting a 100,000$ CNC mill making a 6 hour final pass on a tool for making Cellos. At least the computer is close to The mill. I might play with your photo. Jim
 
That is quite something, I had no idea you could digitally remove the loader and fix the hood and make the tires shiny like that. Monitoring CNC equipment like that must be quite a task, I should think, especially for 6 hours. I'm curious what kind of cello making tool you were making, I have no idea of what tools are used for that. I am familiar with some violin making tools, and I would think some cello tools would have to be the same except bigger, like the reamers and the gouges and chisels but I imagine there are other tools that would be completely different to work on that scale. Thank you for all of your help.
Zach
 
The body of a bowed Instrument (most) have a C-bouts. The "C" shaped indentations in the sides of the body. The tool I am making is a copper wood bending and heating jig. It is about 9" tall and egg shaped (as are the C-bouts). It will have 3 electric heaters in it to provide steaming and bending temperatures, with a thermocouple based electronic temperature control. It is large enough to work well for Double Base construction as well.
We are using a HAAS 30hp CNC Vertical Mill to make the non linear contours of the egg. Most of the time is just listening to the machine making passes. Changes in the pitch, or loudness, or coolant spray are cause for alarm, The setup and programming are the hard part. Jim
 
That sounds like a very neat project. Do you build cellos and basses yourself or are you making this for someone else? I bent the sides for my mandolin with a heat gun and copper pipe, but they were only 1.375" wide so it was easy to do by hand. I have never seen a dedicated bender for that shape but it makes sense that that would be the way to go. I've seen setups for bending guitar sides with 400 watt light bulbs in a heavy wooden mold, but they are not bent to nearly so sharp of an angle. I've never been in the same room as a CNC but I would think that after 6 hours the noise would be quite unpleasant, even with ear plugs. Do you have to program each pass manually before the machine starts or do you somehow tell it the shape and it figures out the passes on its own? Thanks for everything.
Zach
 
The machine is operating again as I sit here. It is not too loud, a little bit like 80DB. The part is being made for a friend for modest compensation to SCSU. The machine is running 3000 lines of code. The code was produced with ProE Wild Fire 5. manufacturing Module, and solid modeling module. Settup requires getting the billet of copper bolted to the machine with 6 1/2" bolts, and straight square and level.
Jim
 
Thanks for the explanation. For some reason I had assumed that it would be louder than that, but I am glad to hear that it isn't. That sounds like a lot of code, but I don't know anything about that sort of work. I appreciate your telling me about it, I always like to learn about what kinds of work other people do and how it's done.
Zach
 
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