tire monkey question?

mike paulson · Dec 26, 2010

hey guy's i have change hundreds of tubless and split rimmed truck tires in my time using only tire pry bars, bead blasters and my favorite ether.

so i was wondering how one goes about changing 13x28 tractor tires. are they easily pryed over the rims and is seating the bead best done with ether or a blaster? or is it best to just put tubes in for easier bead seating. are there any other things i should know so i don't blow myself and shop up?
oh there will be no calcium used...

Dellbertt · Dec 26, 2010

Here's some good stuff from a couple days ago.
Dell
http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=790951

mkirsch · Dec 26, 2010

You'll find that the larger tires are generally EASIER to mount. Generally.

You can run into stiff old tires, rusty rims, etc. which make the job more difficult.

Can't comment on tubeless tractor rears. If you're putting these tires on an older tractor you probably need to use tubes.

mazemeister · Dec 26, 2010

my exerience is:
the taller the tire, the easier to change.
avoid using tubes in radial tires. over time, they will rub the sidewall and make pinholes. i finally got sick of patching about 1-2 holes per year in a pair of 13.6R38 and went tubeless. there were about 10 patches around the sidewall of each tube. tubes are fine in bias tires.

Anonymous-0 · Dec 26, 2010

Man, after reading the discussions I didn't realize people made such a hard time of changing a tractor tire. I would rather change a rear tractor tire than a small lawnmower tire. Just jack up the rear side of the tractor with the tire to work on, get a large hammer and hand held tire wedge tool and go to work. I've changed and repaired the tube in them in as little as 30 minutes. Some stubborn ones will take longer though.

Tom Fleming · Dec 26, 2010

I just put a used tire on my F-12 cast spoke rim. 11 x 36. No prob. hit the beads with silocone spray. took me longer to fish the tube in than it did to pop the tire on.

504 · Dec 26, 2010

I used a dull splitting maul to break the bead and three crow bars to change one about three weeks ago(needed a section repair) I still haven't decided if I am going to put a tube back in.

sgtbull · Dec 27, 2010

One of my favorite things to use on tubes and beads when seating them is baby powder. Liberally coat the tube and bead with it. It will help the tube properly inflate without folds or kinks and makes the rubber around a bead "non-sticky" so it beads up easily. It also helps yrs down the road by keeping the tube from sticking to the inside of the tire. Lastly, unlike soapy water, it won't cause any rust to form and the excess simply blows off w/ compressed air.

Dellbertt · Dec 27, 2010

As long as we are discussing this again I'll add this.

1. A guy in town will repair any car or pickup tire for $5.00. Take it off, repair it and put it back on the vehicle. Give him $5 and away you go.
He has an old gas station filled with tires. Nice fellow too.

2. I had a pro come out to to the farm to switch around a couple tractor tires.
I took quite a bit of time lubing up the all lug bolts so they would be free to remove rim and I had it jacked up and secure. If he didn't remove from the tractor I thought he would use his hydro pinchers to break the bead. He got out of his truck, looked, got his big sledge out of the truck and whacked the sidewalls a few times and the bead was broke.
He switched out three tires and wasn't here but about 40 minutes. For sure less than and hour.

Dell

Dellbertt · Dec 27, 2010

I forgot to mention the pro charged me $25 a tire ($75) and was about 2 years ago.

Dell

tire monkey question?

mike paulson

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Dellbertt

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mkirsch

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mazemeister

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Anonymous-0

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Tom Fleming

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504

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sgtbull

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Dellbertt

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Dellbertt

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