Cub - new exhaust pipe

Just put my new exhaust pipe betwixt the old muffler and the old manifold. Old pipe was a goner. Had to replace half of the clamp on the manifold end. The other half is rusty but reusable and they be 'spensive. Is there any type of seal or sealant that I am supposed to be using at the connection of manifold to pipe? Clamp is on there tight but the pipe has a bit of play...it moves. Don't want any hot gases spewing out on my paint.

Can you change out the pipe from the manifold?
I did that on one of my Cubs. It was a chore to get the old one out but I got it. 1" pipe tap to clean the threads and some high temp anti-seize. Looks like new now.

I dunno. I never thought of it! I was just kind of hoping there was some sort of asbestos wrap or such I could wind around that thing to give the clamp a little more to grab a hold of. I'll take a look at t'other and see if it sounds like a winner but thinkin no.

I have tried the wrap and was not happy with it - You may get lucky. Ask at a napa store what they have.
On the one I did I put a 90 deg. elbow to mount the muffler forward for low clearance.

Dave, from your decription of the clamp I'm surmising the underslung exhaust.

Whether that or the vertical, the union elbow on the underslung, and pipe on the vertical are standard black iron plumbing parts. It's a chore, but they can be gotten off and out, and replaced after cleaning up the threads in the manifold. The worst part of the chore might be wading into the archives here to find threads on some of the tricks to getting them apart.

My thinking is that the sharper threads on a new union elbow might make your clamp more effective. And the whole setup makes me wonder if that clamp might be a plumbing item, as well. If it were mine and I were to decide to go that route, it would mean takin' the manifold back off and luggin' it into a real plumbing supply house, and seein' what they can match up. Might even enlist the help of one of those retired plumbers who know about the stuff to help get it all apart and back together. That could mean you might have to spring for a pint or two of Old Duke, but that might be more efficient than findin' the threads in the archives.

Do I get the sense that the little darlin' is gettin' close to field ready???

Well yes and no, but let's get into this elbow at the top of the manifold first. I see in the parts manual that it is, in fact, a threaded elbow but is listed as an "exhaust pipe reducer" and if memory serves me was flared at the pipe end. Trying to think of a comparable iron pipe equivalent I might have seen over the years. You think this would be at the plumbing supply? That would solve a lot of problems. I shouldn't have any trouble getting them apart. I have a lot of resources available to me in that regard.

Now...field ready? There have been setbacks. But, yes...I am close. Right side of tractor is complete. Left side will be when I get the manifold resolved. Mrs H will help be with the fan and belts when she gets home today and then I can put the rad back on. Rear is mostly complete, have to hook up the brakes. I have a complete wire harness for it and will put that on. I guess if the holiday were not this week I could say that I would be hitting the starter button by next weekend. I would LIKE to drop the fast hitch over to the sand blaster tomorrow but don't know. Will cost a little but I am DONE with the drill and wire wheel for a while. Painting that will be easy enough if I heat up the shop first. Realistically, I will have this done just in time to start hitting the desk hard...or not. It ran fine when I took it apart...hope that is in my favor.

Holiday, work, and basketball season is in full swing. Time is not on my side. Keeping busy over here, that's for sure!

Well, now, you've sent me back to the books (or the Case?IH online books as it were). I missed the reducer on my first pass through there. It's listed as separate part from the elbow and it's not clear from the drawings where it goes, so now I'm gonna shoot from the hip a little.

I can imagine a couple of layouts, which will depend on what the female thread at the top of the manifold is, and what you need to be clamping the pipe to at the top of the elbow.

If it's a 1" pipe thread at the top of the manifold, I can imagine a reducer with a 1" male to come out of the manifold that steps up to mate with the 1-1/4" thread of the elbow, with the pipe clamped to the top of the elbow.

The other way is if the thread on the manifold is 1-1/4". That would mean a plain 1-1/4" elbow with the reducer at the top to clamp the pipe to.

A really elegant solution (though it might mess up the geometry of fitting the pipe and having it hang right) would be an elbow threaded 1" at one end and 1-1/4 at the other, but, plumbing being what it is, I don't know that there is such a beast.

I've always said that the puzzlin' and ponderin' time that is a part of wrenchin' in the dark is some of the most satisfyin' time a fella can spend. I'll be interested in hearin' what you can find, but I would start with a good plumbing supply house.

Yup...I enjoy problem solving time when I have it AND when it is 80 degrees out and the sun is shining. This time of year...NO. I just want it done so I can get on with things. Thought I would shoot you a picture and was cursing all the way out there in the cold and as I took off the clamps. Good thing though as the one half of the clamp I did not replace (they run $18 per half, $36 for the whole clamp) had broken and was a lot of the reason the pipe wobbles a bit. If you look at the pic you can see that the pipe has a flare and the elbow matches it. That elbow does not look like pipe stock to me. Also, while I imagine it is possible to use pipe the clearances on Cubs make them a little trickier to play with than say a B or C. Everything is really tightly packed in there. We have a game in Saginaw this week and it takes me right by the CIH dealer. Thinking I call Aldermans and talk to the counter guy about this elbow and another $$$$ clamp half. All I need to hear is that the elbow is $60 and...well...Houston, we'll have ignition. Getting a bit tired of the cash outflows on thisun.

Whatcha think about that elbow?

Well, now we have a different kettle of fish, haven't we? That flare doesn't look anything like the handsome pipe thread in the parts listing.

It certainly doesn't look like it in the picture, but is that perhaps the reducer and is threaded somehow onto the elbow???

Bottom line, though, I suspect the bunged up clamp is the cause of your leak. If you can get by cleaning up the mating surfaces (but not TOO well!!) with another half a clamp, that'sd be ideal.

Don't know how original you want things, but band clamps have gotten quite fashionable on automotive exhausts. Don't know if they make them down to the size you want. Even if they do, it would take a good counterman to find you the right one without an automotive application. Idea is typical band clamp, tightened down by a t-bolt rather than the screw thread in the band of a hose clamp. Welded to the inside of the band are 2/3/4 (depending on size and application) arcs of channel which grab either side of the elbow and pipe flares and tighten down.

Well, since I have to run up to the hood for a game anyway and it passes right by CIH, I think I will make myself a gift of original parts and make the season merrier. I'll call them in the AM. If they tell me to roll up my sleeve and give blood we will follow up some alternative leads before Wednesday's game.

Dave, have you asked this question over at FarmallCub.com? :idea: I would.

Looks like the underslung muffler.

There is no sealant between the elbow and pipe. Clamp is supposed to hold it tight, and the carbon buildup from a little bit of run time should seal up any minor leaks.

If that pipe is not being held tight to the elbow, something is wrong with the clamp.