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Helping a Neighbor with Cub Wiring...doesn't look right.

R

RTR

Well-known Member
I recently met a guy through the internet (my Youtube videos) that lives locally and has a Cub tractor. He has been fixing it up, and wanted me to do the wiring for him. Since I have done about 6 or 7 Cubs now, I told him I could. Once I got it home and took the hood off, I noticed it has an Alternator as well as a Voltage Regulator. This doesn't look right to me, but I'm not sure; as the alternator looks different than the ones I am used to. If you guys could help me out, I'd appreciate it.
 

Here are some pictures......
a134890.jpg
a134891.jpg
 
I have the same alternator on one of my tractors. Thats not a regulator, thats a cutout, if Im right, and one wire should go to the alt and the other to the battery side of the coil. The cutout should be marked IGN and BAT. The BAT side can go to the spade marked A I think.I took it off and relaced it with another type of cutout that plugs into the alternator.
 
Looks like an older 10DN Delco alternator which requires an external regulator and a Chrysler reg. If it is wired correctly it will work just fine. Actually simpler to wire up than the Delco reg. BTDT.
 
(quoted from post at 03:21:57 12/15/10) I have the same alternator on one of my tractors. Thats not a regulator, thats a cutout, if Im right, and one wire should go to the alt and the other to the battery side of the coil. The cutout should be marked IGN and BAT. The BAT side can go to the spade marked A I think.I took it off and relaced it with another type of cutout that plugs into the alternator.
Click to expand...

Why is the cut-out on this tractor, when all of the other 12 volt converted tractors I've had/seen didn't have this??
 
Like TractormanNC notes that's a first generation Delco 10DN alternator.

The 10DN requires an external regulator in order to function, and it looks like the PO used a regulator for 60's era Chrysler alternator.

Properly wired that setup will work fine!
 
(quoted from post at 03:37:12 12/15/10) Like TractormanNC notes that's a first generation Delco 10DN alternator.

The 10DN requires an external regulator in order to function, and it looks like the PO used a regulator for 60's era Chrysler alternator.

Properly wired that setup will work fine!
Click to expand...

Thank you so much guys. So you are saying that what I have is correct? I need to get EVERYTHING WIRED CORRECTLY and get the tractor going to see what works and what doesn't. Do you guys have the proper wiring diagram for this setup so I can get this done??
 
You can either email me or post the diagram here if any of you have one. THANKS>
 

The coil and starter should be the same as any other. Run the BAT wire from the alt to the gauge, then to the battery, I assume that Bob and Tractorman have also told you the wiring for the alternater is right. Mine was wires one to the A term, the other to the battery side of the coil, but it could also go back up to the switch.
 
RTR - That looks right.

Assuming that's a Chrysler voltage regulator its terminals will be labelled IGN and FLD.

The wire from the fuse should go to the IGN terminal and the wire to the alternator F should connect to the FLD terminal.

TIP: The regulator base must be solidly grounded!
 

I could not find any labels on the regulator at all. The regulator is bolted directly to the engine head.

Should there be a diode in-line between BATT terminal and ammeter??

Should I have a ballast resistor inline between coil and switch??
 
1 - Recommend buy/install a new regulator. Ask for one for any early/mid 60's Chrysler product. (The Autozone #VR706 is good - about $25).

2 - No diode required between BAT terminal and ammeter (the alternator's internal diodes are sufficient...)

3 - If the tractor has its original 6 volt coil a ballast resistor is required. However it's been replaced with a 12 volt coil (usually labelled "no external ballast resistor required" or similar) then it's good as is.
 
(quoted from post at 07:26:55 12/15/10) 1 - Recommend buy/install a new regulator. Ask for one for any early/mid 60's Chrysler product. (The Autozone #VR706 is good - about $25).

2 - No diode required between BAT terminal and ammeter (the alternator's internal diodes are sufficient...)

3 - If the tractor has its original 6 volt coil a ballast resistor is required. However it's been replaced with a 12 volt coil (usually labelled "no external ballast resistor required" or similar) then it's good as is.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bob, however this isn't my tractor; and the owner wants to check this system first to see if it works before buying new/different parts. I would just convert it over to the 10-SI if it were mine since I know how to wire those.
 
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