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Farmall H locked up!

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Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Since it was 22 below windchill today my H was locked up in the rearend. I havent had this tractor but a few months and this is the first cold spell for it. I had to put a heater under it and thaw the transmission out to make it move. After it started it would die when i let the clutch out in neutral and I assume the gear oil has some water in it. or that's the only thing I can think. How do I go about draining all the oil and refilling with new. and what type of oil?
 
Pull all the drain plugs out. Rinse it out with diesel fuel to get all the water out. Use at least an 80w90 GL-5 or better. 85w140 will work to, better for gear life. Like with anything the better the oil you use the better off you are.
 
80-90 gear oil is correct. You can make a temporary fix by letting it sit (warm enough to be above freezing) and remove, to the near last thread, the two drain plugs only enough to let the water out, then rethread them. you will get a little oily, but it will stop the freezing till it is warmer. It might take 2 days to settle back out if it was used extensively when thawed. Jim
 
I do it all the time and have not had it cause seal leakage. I said rinse it out, not fill it up with diesel and run it.
 
Good thing wind chill only applies to skin and not metal and oil. Changing hytran because of water to get the hydraulics to work I can see. But I'm not sure a little water in 80/90 wt. gear oil will make a difference in that stiff stuff even if it was milky and slimy feeling. I think you are just going to have to heat your oil and wait till the engine warms up.
 
Just an FYI, on the 1940 M my uncle has, there was a bit of water in the rear end and it froze one MN winter back in say 1994/1995. The rear end did not lock up, but the ice chunk got lodged between the bull gear and the bottom of the housing and punched about a plum-sized hole in the casing. You would think the ice would have gave before the casing, but not the case, as we found the chunk of ice at the beginning of the trail of 80/90 weight. Might want to do your best to get the water out of there.
 
"Rinsing" it with diesel... How much "rinsing" can you really do? If you could spray diesel into the nooks and crannies and actually flush anything out, it might be worth it.

All you can do is dump diesel in the fill hole, and all it will do is run to the bottom. You might flush out some crud at the very bottom but not much else.
 
(quoted from post at 22:16:09 12/12/10) Good thing wind chill only applies to skin and not metal and oil. Changing hytran because of water to get the hydraulics to work I can see. But I'm not sure a little water in 80/90 wt. gear oil will make a difference in that stiff stuff even if it was milky and slimy feeling. I think you are just going to have to heat your oil and wait till the engine warms up.
Click to expand...

A "little" water probably wouldn't cause any problems, but a "lot" of water will. Oil and water do not mix, and the water will always go to the bottom, and if there is enough water to cover the bull gears, or even partially cover, then when that water freezes, you WILL have problems.
 
like janicholson said, warm up the rear end and then loosen the drain plugs and let the water out till you get oil coming out. there may be sludge built up behind the drain plug, if so, poke it with a screwdriver to get the drain open. have 2 empty 5 gallon pails handy in case you drop the drain plug. when the water is out replace the drain plug. at this point i dump some kerosene in the the rear end and leave it. on an m, i use 2 gallons. an h would be a gallon and run the tractor for a week or so, then drain the oil and change it. the kerosene will thin the gear lube and loosen a lot of the crud.
 
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