Hi all. I'm sure this topic has been covered, but it's hard to use the search function from my phone internet. I was wondering what oil I should use in my 1946 Farmall M. I bought it about a year ago, and havn't yet changed the oil, yet have always kept an eye on it to be sure it has enough in it. When I start it cold, the gauge goes about 1/4 inch past the end of the high pressure side. It is still 6v, and starts fine in the summer, but in the winter it becomes very slow turning over, and I was told by a neighbor that it is probably due to not having winter oil in it? What oil should I be running in it in these temperatures? (20 degrees and below) I usually run a Non-detergent 30W oil from my local TSC. Thanks.
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- Thread starter Faster346
- Start date
(quoted from post at 19:18:07 12/10/10) Get rid of the non-detergent and run 10W30 in cold temperatures or 15W40 year around.
Any specific brand, or just anything I'd get at like Autozone for my car?
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
(quoted from post at 19:20:19 12/10/10)(quoted from post at 19:18:07 12/10/10) Get rid of the non-detergent and run 10W30 in cold temperatures or 15W40 year around.
Any specific brand, or just anything I'd get at like Autozone for my car?
Shell Rotella 15w/40 seems to have about the best price around here, and it is very good oil. It IS diesel motor oil, but that is what you want in these old tractors because of the zinc additive. The zinc is what is needed to properly lubricate the lobes on the camshaft and also the lifters. Most of the modern 5w/30, 10w/30, 10w/40 motor oils for your car do not have the zinc additive.
Hi rustyfarmall: I'll second your comments on Shell Rotella 15w/40 because of the Zinc and the reduction/elimination in the last year or so in most all other brands. The car collector guys with 1955 t0 1970 cars seem to agree, on various forums, with Rottela T 15-40. One of the better websites for just oil info is www.bobistheoilguy.com... Too bad the zinc was (had?) to be reduced. It was one of the better improvments to basic oil since the 1930s.
ag..
ag..
(quoted from post at 07:27:31 12/11/10) If you are running it below 20 degrees yiu should go with 5-30 or 5-20. CHange to something heavier in the summer. If you don't use it much in the winter save that 5-20 for the next winter.
Gordo
Hm, I have some Royal Purple 5w30 and some Brad Penn 5w30 sitting here on the shelf. While we're on the topic, how many quarts does a M hold? Thank you guys so much!
State of Jefferson
Member
I run Delo 15-40 in everything I own, all the time. Doesn't ever get THAT cold here.
Your M holds about 8 quarts.
Ben
Your M holds about 8 quarts.
Ben
Jim Becker
Well-known Member
The "zinc crisis" is mostly being promoted by the people selling zinc additives. New oils with reduced ZDDP still have plenty for an old slow turning tractor engine.
Yes, when I ran the SM in the winter it was still running 6V. As long as it charged, it would start. It is only 15w when cold, as it warms it thickens to 40W. If you are concerned about it cranking you can go with a 10-40 or if you can find it 5-40. I know that they claim if you run a oW-X synthetic oil, it will pump into the engine quicker on a cold start because it is so thin when cold.
Jim Becker
Well-known Member
Here is a pretty good explanation in reasonably simple terms.
http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf
The basic message is that prior to about 1960 there was little or no ZDDP in most oil when it was added for high performance engines. Most newer oils (through SM anyway) still have more ZDDP than was added at that time for the high performance engines. It is just another version of the gasoline lead additive nonsense all over again.
Non-detergent oils don't have any ZDDP. I've seen a lot of sludged up engines that still had good camshafts.
If you want more technical details, follow the links in the above referenced article. You can find more details using a web search or looking on oil company's sites for their listed additives or MSDSs.
http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf
The basic message is that prior to about 1960 there was little or no ZDDP in most oil when it was added for high performance engines. Most newer oils (through SM anyway) still have more ZDDP than was added at that time for the high performance engines. It is just another version of the gasoline lead additive nonsense all over again.
Non-detergent oils don't have any ZDDP. I've seen a lot of sludged up engines that still had good camshafts.
If you want more technical details, follow the links in the above referenced article. You can find more details using a web search or looking on oil company's sites for their listed additives or MSDSs.
Jim Becker
Well-known Member
If you don't want to read the whole thing, check page 2 then about 9 through 12.
Jim Becker
Well-known Member
The more recent Diesel oil specs allowed more ZDDP than recent gas engine oil specs. The argument for Diesel oil is just another version of the zinc story.
(quoted from post at 08:50:51 12/13/10) The more recent Diesel oil specs allowed more ZDDP than recent gas engine oil specs. The argument for Diesel oil is just another version of the zinc story.
So I should or shouldn't?
Jim Becker
Well-known Member
Use Diesel oil? No point in it.(quoted from post at 14:52:55 12/13/10)(quoted from post at 08:50:51 12/13/10) The more recent Diesel oil specs allowed more ZDDP than recent gas engine oil specs. The argument for Diesel oil is just another version of the zinc story.
So I should or shouldn't?
Any oil with any of the current ratings is going to be better oil than the nondetergent 30 weight that you have been using.
Any oil with any of the current ratings is going to be better oil than the nondetergent 30 weight that you have been using.
Alright, thank you for all the help!
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