(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

Need Ideas/Methods to Fix Damaged Rims???

R

RTR

Well-known Member
Hello all!!! I have a Farmall Cub, and just sandblasted the front rims. After I completed I noticed that the rim is rusted out (holy) around the valve stem hole (picture below). What are the best methods to "repair" this without getting a new rim. Before I put primer on it; I'd like to know so I can get it fixed. I figured all you tractor pros would have a tip or a trick to do this. Thanks for all your help!!

(I also posted this in Restoration Tips and Tricks)
p50704.jpg
 
Fix them all the time. I keep a few old rims and pieces of rims around. find one that matches as close as possible ,cut a good piece out of it and and fit and weld it into your rim. Drill a new valve stem hole somewhere else around the rim.
 

That would be the perfect fix! However, I really wasn't wanting to get that intensive into it. I was thinking of filling the smaller holes and concavity on the inside of the rim with either JB Weld or Epoxy for Steel. I was gonna leave the valve stem hole as is. Do you think this will be ok??
 
Quick and easy is a couple or three layers of fiberglass impregnated with polyester resin. Apply to inside of rim. Sand smooth with 36 grit paper or flap wheel when hard and re-drill the hole.

If you are super fussy, fill the outside with body filler if needed. Now you are ready to prime and paint. That repair will outlive you and be undetectable.
 
I've seen repairs of various types and I wouldn't have been satisfied with them on any of my tractors. I've found new rims from Hey Wheel & Rim in Baldwin City, Kansas has been my solution in the past. I don't know the size of Cub rims so couldn't look up a price for new ones for you but I bought a new 10 X 38 Titan rim for my Farmall H for $140 a couple of years ago. My email is open and send a note if you want contact informaion, Hal.
 
The JB will break there do like Wardner says it will last do several layers you wont be able to tell when done. I have sone several and you cant tell they have been repaired.
 
Ive looked at various places via Google, and found them for less than 60 bucks. I can see where fixing one would be much cheaper than that, but I dont fix those type of things, I just replace them.
 

John,

I usually do too, however our budget on this particular Cub is running quite close; so we are trying to be thrifty on certain things here out.

Where would I find layers of fiberglass impregnated with polyester resin??? Thats exactly would I would like to do to fix it. Thanks Wardner!
 
John, the fiberglass products are available at a
marine supply outlet, autobody jobber, and maybe a
general merchandiser like Walmart or Sears. Call
first on those last two. I'm sure there are kits on
eBay too, but I haven't looked. If you are near
Tewksbury, MA, I would give you enough. You don't
need more than 1/2 pint of resin. You might find
variants like Kevlar cloth and epoxies. They will
be more expensive and unnecessary.

Some places sell a kit with the mat (or cloth),
the resin, and the hardener. I like mat better
than cloth but both are fine.

There is another product whereby the un-catylizaed
resin and chopped fibers are premixed and sold in
a can. That would be a last resort for me. As
you are a newby, I think you should stay clear of
that unmanageable goop.
 
i had a 2 piece tedder rim that was rusted badly around the valve stem hole. i got Devcon plastic steel putty 10110 through amazon.com, and it worked super. it might be worth a try. the 1 lb can has enough to fix a buick.
 
Welding Man has the best method from strength standpoint. We use 1/16 inch steel strip of the right width & hammer/grind it to fit, & weld it in where the rust is. Then drill a new hole as WM says.
When we are done with implements that sit outside, we jack the individual wheels up & rotate the valves to the top so rain won't run into the valve hole.
 
That rim (opinion) is rusted to the point of replacement. If repaired at the stem hole it will be weak every where else. A 35 psi explosion will take off your arm. Consider the safety of the situation, and the resultant loss. Jim
 

That rim appears to me to be rusted and pitted to the point that it would be very tough to make a decision as to where to stop patching. I have patched up similar rims, and if I would add up the cost of the extra sheet metal, the welding wire, electricity, etc., and placed any kind of value on my time, it would have been less costly to just throw it on the scrap pile and buy a new rim.
 

Thanks for all of the tips/help guys!! I got her all patched up and smooth, and primered ready for a new tire to be mounted!! THANKS AGAIN.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Momo Taro
Let's fix this DB 885
2
Replies
32
Views
1K
Momo Taro
Momo Taro
V
new owner of a 620, will try to update this as we go.
2 3 4
Replies
61
Views
3K
valiant8086
V
L
Need Ford Rim Clamps
Replies
16
Views
761
Lingcod
L
G
My 'Blue Gunkie' 3000D lives to fight another winter
Replies
8
Views
1K
doublebass73
D
R
Rim repair
2
Replies
21
Views
1K
dr sportster
D
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top