F-30 progress report - pic The disassembly begings

started working on the F-30 today. taking her apart. Thought I would post a couple of pics......this is going to be a loooooooong process. Who knows, for what I paid for her, might totally disassemble and keep for parts, and get one a little closer to running............then again, it will be a long cold winter, and this will certainly keep me busy!!!



Hood, valve cover, and rocker's off. Hood took the most time. All the control rods were rusted solid. Lot's of propane, PBlaster, and patience got the hood off. Yes, I disassembled, not cut or destroyed.



That my friends used to be a distillate manifold. actually, made it easiers getting it off. Nothing to salvage there. just used a 4 lb. ball pein hammer, and took it off in chucks.


Thermostat, water pump, and fan were next









More tomorrow. I have the water jacket top off, and all the head nuts (had to use a chisel on the 2 under the water jacket. Now, I need to figure out how to break the head free. won't be easy.

All the intake valves are free. All the exhaust valves are stuck. Shot the exhaust valves with blaster, top and inside the manifold.

Last item, there were what appeared to be alloy inserts in the intake part of the manifold. They are actually in good condition. What are they?

Excellent pics. Sounds like you've had a little luck with getting stuff apart. At least you make it sound as if it hasn't been too horrible so far. Hood sounds like a pain. Keep at it. Good luck!

Any idea why the unusual clutch pedal? Perhaps the tractor was used by a very small person who could not reach the standard F-30 clutch pedal.

The alloy inserts may be "Heater Tubes" for distilate that were common on F-20s that had the dual-fuel manifolds like the one on your F-30.

Gently drive a large flat screw driver under the head. It should separate pretty easy, but it is a heavy bugger. I find lots of stuck valves in these, keep hitting em with blaster. Once the head is off you can drive them out.

F-Dean, that is the standard clutch pedal for an F-30. The are adjustable for length. the F-30 is a bit bigger beast than the F-20. I have never seen an F-30 without one of those.

Dean, Mine has the same paddle but toms looks as if is adjusted al the way out! If you lossen the nut you can adjust for length. Tom GOOD START!
oldiron29

Tom,Thoes heat tubes in the manifold I was told to mill them flush with the head and install a new aftermarket manifold.

jimmy

Tom, your clutch pedal extension is a special part that comes with the cultivator lift. The standard F30 clutch pedal is adjustable but the rod is straight and shorter than the one on your tractor. Part numbers for your clutch pedal extension would be in the cultivator lift parts book not the tractor one. I have a corn picker hood, brass sediment bowl and flat drawbar supports on mine. None of these Items are in the tractor book but are in my cornpicker manual.

36F30, you mean like these:









BTW, I see a couple of parts there that I would be MORE than happy to buy off of you if they are for a F-30........ air cleaner tube and fan shroud......mine are toast.

Yep, you won't find any of that in the tractor parts book, its all in the cultivator book. I have a extra fan shroud that is rusted out on the bottom, not the best. The air tube is on my tractor!

I found a rod and piston, pics coming.

BTW, if anyone is interested in those cultivator parts, I would be happy to swap parts or make me an offer if you don't have any parts. I will be taking them off the tractor, and I would never scrap them, so they will end up gathering dust in the attic of the garage.

36F30, I'll keep an eye out. BTW, I have the flatop pistons. Got the head off today. what a mess. I meant to post pictures, but we have rain coming, and she is sitting outside right now. I had the tarp on before I thought about taking the picks of the cylinders. Salvagable.......maybe. Will see after I get the pistons out.

I am not surprised she has the flat tops. There are so many kerosene parts still on it like the manifold and head inserts. Looks like it didn't get the field upgrade to the variable speed governor either. ( the speed linkage is still attached to the gov tube going to the carb, this linkage was removed in the upgrade).
Very original old girl. I still have a rod that will work, if you can save your piston.

A mess inside always looks worse than it is, mine looked like this and I saved the sleeves and pistons from 1 and 4 and reused them.

I am definately going to need a rod. #2 looks like a pretzel. The rest look good, but will have them checked out when I get them out. If they are bent, they aren't bad enought that hey can't be straightened.

I was talking to Gordon Rice today, and he thinks she will be just fine. I will be able to tell better when I get the pistons out. I am going to leave the engine on the tractor for now. Will drop the rod caps, and let the pistons soak in blaster for 2-3 weeks, then I am going to try the deisel fuel and light it technique. Warm her up a bit, then try tapping them down. The valves are all shot, and I am not sure yet whether there is enough material to grind new seats, or whether I'll have to have seats installed (plenty of room in there though to do that). Not sure yet what the guides look like. I already priced valves and springs.......ouch. With new valves, should probably consider doing the guides at the same time.

I am anxious to figure out all that I am going to need, so I can start looking. Not worried about getting it done right away, but I like to gather all the parts, so when I start, I have everything.

Tom,pull your clutch cover off,and remove every thing down to your flywheel.There is 2 large holes in your flywheel that you can put 2 peices of pipe in and use a long peice of pipe to put pressure on your crank by prying up or down.By doing this and pouring kerosene in your cylinders and letting them burn you will have the motor loose fairly quick

jimmy