Starter and coil wiring - 263 gas

bc

Well-known Member
Hi. Almost done on my rewire job. When I opened up the harness around the starter and up front, everything was cracked and corroded and a mess of cut and unused wires so I replaced it all. Nothing like doing wiring in the cold, blowing rain.

Have a question though as my 2606 doesn't fit any schematic as it has a one wire alternator and a 3 position keyed ignition switch.

The wire from the coil went to the bottom small post of the starter solenoid and then a jumper to the key ignition switch. From another side of the key ignition switch a wire goes to one side of the push button and then continues on as 10 guage to the big hot battery cable post on the starter solenoid. Then there is a wire from the top small post of the starter solenoid to the other side of the push button.

I'm just wondering if there is a better way to do this circuit? As it is now, the push button is still live even with the key off. I'd like to make it for kids or someone who could bump the button while it is in gear.

For other information, the big 10 guage hot wire from the alternator goes to the positive side of the ammeter. The negative side of the ammeter is 10 guage down to the big starter solenoid post.

Further info is that I came off the 3rd leg of the key switch to a fuse and then to the headlight switch and cig lighter receptacle. I only have one wire going to the headlights but the first on position gives low beams, 2nd gives high beams, and third (not hooked up now) would add the rear light.

Another weird thing is that the spring jumper between the headlight and instrument light terminals on the back of the switch would smoke for a while after turning the lights on but it wouldn't blow the 30A fuse.

Thanks.
 
The 350 I just rewired had the power line from the battery going to the keyed ignition so then you can only use anything with the key on. It had the bat to the key then a jumper to the push button and then on the other side of the push button was a jumper the the light switch and everything else that needed power. I wish I could be more specific I'm not up on all the elcetrical mumbo jumbo. Hope I helped
 
(quoted from post at 21:21:22 11/11/10) Hi. Almost done on my rewire job. When I opened up the harness around the starter and up front, everything was cracked and corroded and a mess of cut and unused wires so I replaced it all. Nothing like doing wiring in the cold, blowing rain.

Have a question though as my 2606 doesn't fit any schematic as it has a one wire alternator and a 3 position keyed ignition switch.

The wire from the coil went to the bottom small post of the starter solenoid and then a jumper to the key ignition switch. From another side of the key ignition switch a wire goes to one side of the push button and then continues on as 10 guage to the big hot battery cable post on the starter solenoid. Then there is a wire from the top small post of the starter solenoid to the other side of the push button.

I'm just wondering if there is a better way to do this circuit? As it is now, the push button is still live even with the key off. I'd like to make it for kids or someone who could bump the button while it is in gear.

For other information, the big 10 guage hot wire from the alternator goes to the positive side of the ammeter. The negative side of the ammeter is 10 guage down to the big starter solenoid post.

Further info is that I came off the 3rd leg of the key switch to a fuse and then to the headlight switch and cig lighter receptacle. I only have one wire going to the headlights but the first on position gives low beams, 2nd gives high beams, and third (not hooked up now) would add the rear light.

Another weird thing is that the spring jumper between the headlight and instrument light terminals on the back of the switch would smoke for a while after turning the lights on but it wouldn't blow the 30A fuse.

Thanks.

The wire that goes from the ignition switch to the solenoid and then on to the coil is not a standard copper wire.The part of the wire that goes between the key switch and solenoid is actually a resistor wire. It takes the place of an external ignition resistor. when the starter is engaged the solenoid switch also energizes that wire bypassing the resistance to furnish higher voltage to the coil for starting.

If the original wire is not reusable, and you do not find any resistance wire to replace it, you can use regular copper wire and an external ignition resistor to replace it.
 
Thanks. Think I have it now Tyler, I just need to take the hot wire on the push button and move it over to the ignition switch. Basically swap them two out.

Owen: Never heard of this resistance wire. My coil is one of those Napa internally ballasted 12v coils. The old wire was cracked, corroded at the cracks, and had a number of splices in it from someone's else's hack job. Looked like the rest of the wire for half of it and the other half had this weaved cloth insulation that was different than the rest of the wires.

Guess I'll look for a few feet of it when I go to the auto parts store again. Probably look at another oil pressure guage. I've been driving it for 3 years now without knowing how much oil pressure I've got, maybe there is a reason why it didn't have a line connected when I bought it.

Hooked up that new +30 to -30 amps ammeter today as well. Best I got out of it was maybe 1 or 2 amps of positive deflection. Barely able to see it move at full throttle. Headlights on bright didn't budge it back or below zero. But it always charged the battery up even when I had to jump it in the winter. Guess I'll do a voltage check on it.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top