Farmall H Hydraulics

Hello, I recently traded for a 1941 Farmall H. I am about to purchase a trip bucket loader and am concerned about the operation of the hydraulics. I dont have the loader hooked up yet, however, there is a hydraulic control lever on the right hand side. When I pull on it... it doesnt feel like anything is happening. Is this normal? Does the loader need to be hooked up for me to feel anything in the control lever? thanks

You should feel a load on the engine and minor vibration in the tractor. The clutch must be engaged (not pushed down) for the pump to work.
The front elbow on the left, and the right elbow are both connected together inside, so a lift cylinder can be hooked, one to each side.
Pulling the lever out all the way is raise. In the the stop, is hold. Lift and push farther is lower.
The pump is driven from the trans. Thus the clutch must be rotating the trans for hydraulic to work.
It is one way as it is, thus only one hose is connected to each cylinder (unless you use the top half of each cylinder for additional fluid storage. If so a hose is connected to the pump drain with a T or cross, allowing the top ports of the cylinders to connect to the reservoir.) The reservoir takes fluid to the notch in the dipstick. (under the cap) If none, between 9 and 7" from the top of the fill pipe will be full enough.

The left rear port is a delay port, and mostly not used today. Jim

Thanks. Do you think I have a problem if I am not feeling a difference when I pull the lever? Keep in mind that the hose connections are currently plugged because I do not have the loader attached.

Is there oil in the pump? Is the drive coupling in place? You need both of these before anything will happen.
Drive coupling is about 4" long and 1 3/4" diameter. Look under the center of the tractor at the rear of the pump for the coupler.

I'd remove the "dust pan" cover under the clutch housing, just to the rear of the belly pump, and verify the short coupling shaft is installed that connects the belly pump to the trans. If the tractor is running and the clutch pedal is not pushed down, that coupling shaft should be spinning and driving the belly pump. If the coupling shaft has been removed, the pump gears won't be turning and nothing will happen when you pull on the lift lever.

If the coupling shaft is installed, the pump's drive shaft is turning, and you have around 6 quarts of oil or hydraulic fluid in the pump reservoir, the pump will be circulating the fluid from the reservoir, through the pump, and down the bypass opening back into the reservoir.

When you pull the lift lever all the way up, the bypass opening inside the pump should close, and hydraulic pressure should build. I would think you'd be able to hear or feel something as that happens.

You need to have single way cycls on the loader then hook both cycls to the front ports on the belley pump now if you have enough oil in the pump it should raise the loader if it had single way cycls. You dont seem to understand realy what you have mite need some help from someone who realy knows how to make it work. Do you reqaly know what you have for sure as you surely aint the first person who bought something without knowing how to make it work.

This guy is lost he doesent even have the loader installed yet he needs to know what he is trying to do first. We dont have a clue what he is trying to get done when finished.

This guy is lost he doesent even have the loader installed yet he needs to know what he is trying to do first. We dont have a clue what he is trying to get done when finished.

I"ve also recently picked up a 41H, when I pull the leaver I feel load on the engine.

Hey Guys thanks for the help. I have determined the problem, however, still need some help. I removed the belly inspection cover and everything looked ok. When i removed the drive coupler (shaft with two collars and cotter pins) i found that the coupler that threads onto the pump drive shaft would spin without spinning the shaft...not good! I removed the pump and pulled the pump,tore it apart, and removed the drive shaft. It was definitely stripped bad. The coupler still looks like it has good threads, however, the drive shaft is smooth as can be. Any ideas as to where i can get a new drive shaft? Also, any ideas as to why this would have happened? Thanks again for all the help(except for gene bender).

(quoted from post at 15:33:17 11/04/10) Hey Guys thanks for the help. I have determined the problem, however, still need some help. I removed the belly inspection cover and everything looked ok. When i removed the drive coupler (shaft with two collars and cotter pins) i found that the coupler that threads onto the pump drive shaft would spin without spinning the shaft...not good! I removed the pump and pulled the pump,tore it apart, and removed the drive shaft. It was definitely stripped bad. The coupler still looks like it has good threads, however, the drive shaft is smooth as can be. Any ideas as to where i can get a new drive shaft? Also, any ideas as to why this would have happened? Thanks again for all the help(except for gene bender).

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Probably the most common reason for the coupler and shaft to strip out the threads is the spring on the lever breaking and the piece that breaks off gets drawn up into the pump gears and locks them up. That spring being broken is also a reason for you not feeling any change as you pull on the control rod.

I doubt that you are going to find a new shaft. The cheapest repair will most likely be to replace the entire LiftAll pump with a used assembly. If you really need to repair what you have you could have the threaded portion of the shaft built up and rethreaded but if you have to have the work done at a machine shop the cost could be more than a replacement assembly.

Yup. You hit the nail right on the head there Owen. The spring is broken. Since it sounds like a replacement pump is the best option, what do you think about welding the threaded piece right to the shaft? It may be worth a shot if I'm going to junk the pump anyway. I'm not sure if its even possible. Let me know what you think.

(quoted from post at 17:56:18 11/04/10) Yup. You hit the nail right on the head there Owen. The spring is broken. Since it sounds like a replacement pump is the best option, what do you think about welding the threaded piece right to the shaft? It may be worth a shot if I'm going to junk the pump anyway. I'm not sure if its even possible. Let me know what you think.

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It's been done before. Make sure the seal is good and then be careful not to damage it with too much heat.

Do you think I need to replace the spring? It doesn't appear as though it is really necessary.