Widening Trouble/front axle on 1066 or 1466 or ?

Hello, We have used penetrates and Heat to try to free it up to remove it. Any other suggestions or tricks. Next step we thought is to put the axle between building I-beams and try to separate. It is removed from the 1972 1466 now after the other attempts. It has soaked for weeks.

Chain two tractors to it (one on either side) and give 'er a bump(ing). It'll move, I promise ya.

Allan

Chain two tractors to it (one on either side) and give 'er a bump(ing). It'll move, I promise ya.

Allan

From my own experience in getting some tough ones free, a quarter inch hole drilled through the center section right at the point where the end of the knee tube rides inside the center tube allows penetrating oil to get just where it is needed most. The axle knee tube is " belled" on the end and there is little clearance between the outside diameter of the knee tube and the inside diameter of the center tube. Drill the hole just through the top side of the center tube, put in some oil and heat it good all the way around the center tube where the end of the knee tube will be on the inside of the center tube. The rustiest place will be on the bottom insides of the tubes due to water going in the adjustment spacing holes of the knee tubes. Once you get the knees out, clean and sand inside of center tube and outside of knee tubes . Spot of welding to close the small drilled hole, grind it smooth, paint where needed and lube things good before putting back together.

I remembered seeing this discussed on Red Power a few years ago. Here is address to site. They had some good ideas .

http://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=29663&st=0&p=276210&hl=Wide%20front%20axle%20&fromsearch=1&#entry276210

Our 986 was tough, and 806 and a 4010 sitting on cement in low gear in opposite directions with a heavy sledge hammer got things moving, after much heat and penetrating oil. The rust jacks the parts extremely tight.

We'vemovedsome stubborn front axles before. Once did it as another poster said by chaining a tractor to each side except we put a chain hoist in bewteen the axle & one tractor to pull on the axle. Still had to heat & bang it with a large sledge.

Last one I moved was on a 806 that had been used as a loader tractor. One that one I used a rosebud torch, BFH, & a porta power. I put the porta power between the cast mounting bracket on the tractor & the other end against the outer arm. If I ever do anither one I'll use the porta power again. I had worked on it for several hour, even tried dumping the front wheel against a large rock to break it free. Once I used the porta power it moved right away. A lot easier than any other way I had done before.