Question about fast hitch adjustment

Brendon-KS

Well-known Member
Location
Goessel, KS
I recently acquired a 350 rowcrop with a traction control fast hitch. I am considering an 8-ft FH disk that I know of for sale but am holding off until I understand how something works. On the fast hitch, is there any way to level the implement fore and aft? I have been through the manual for the hitch and also by just looking at the system I see no where to make pitch adjustments. I know on my three-point disk (and other equipment, for that matter) that this is a critical setting to get it to work properly. Would someone be able to educate this FH newbie? Thanks.
 
I think the adjustment for pitch were on the implements. Take a look at the disc and see if that is so.
 
On my 300 there is an adjustment. It is on the passenger side just in front of the rear axle. I have a cylinder there to make the adjustment on the fly (nice when blading) but a pin is used to lock into the correct pitch. Mine doesn't have traction control so yours may vary. Some pitch adjustment can be made on some implements. I would buy the disc before it gets away. It will make sense once you hook it up and look everything over.
 
The 300 and 350 fast hitches are completely different.

300 has manual depth control. That's what the extra cylinder is for.

350 has the traction control.
 
It is important to keep in mind that all Fast-Hitch operation is NOT the same. Just because an implement has 2 prongs on the front, doesn't mean it will work properly on any Fast-Hitch tractor. Among the 2-point tractors, The Super C, 200, 300 amd 400 Farmalls were the only ones with depth control (pitch) built into the front of the hitch. Most anything later had some type of draft control built into the hitch. Pitch adjustments were built into the implements. If there is any general rule, later implements with a pitch adjustment can be used on an earlier tractor but using an early (non-adjustable) implement on a later tractor doesn't work so well.

These comments ignore the possibility of hitches of one series that are mounted on tractors of another series. So don't bother "correcting" me with stories about a early style hitch on your 460 or whatever. I am also ignoring the hitch on the 300 Utility, which was a complete oddball. I'm just trying to explain to Brendon that some disks have a pitch adjustment and others don't. For his hitch, he should have one with the adjustment.
 
I am not a farmer and a seldom use my tractors for ground preparation. But when I do, I use a SMTA with the 300-400 two cylinder system. The horizontal front cylinder will control pitch as well as depth. The two-point sockets are welded to the bail.

On the other hand, all the later fast hitch sockets are pinned and can be converted to "floating" pitch by pulling a 3/4" diameter pin on each socket. This will allow the plow or harrow to seek its own natural pitch or level. There is even a storage hole in the socket when the pin is removed. After removing the pin, the socket can rotate up as much as 45 degrees although that is unlikely to ever happen when working ground. The plow or harrow will oscillate as it goes over a rock if something else like a plow bottom doesn't trip first.

Try to find the section in your manual where it describes the FH socket pins.
 
Thanks to all for the replies. The disk I was
looking at did not have any adjustment at all; the
prongs were an integral part of the frame. So, it
appears that this particular disk would have been
made for an earlier tractor. I have heard of the
pitch control cylinder but neither my tractor or
hitch manual made any mention of it. From what
you said, this makes sense as my tractor has the
traction control system instead. I was not aware
of the fact that the implements differed; this is
good info to know. I figured there must be some
logical explanation since the pitch adjustment on
nearly any implement is so important.
 
Brendon,

I think you are drawing the wrong conclusion. Mfgs usually strive to make new products backwards compatible. That means older harrows will work on newer prime movers from the same line. Moreover, I think all harrows have rigid Fast Hitch points. Your tractor will pull it if you understand the adjustments that IH engineered into your hitch. Study the Fast Hitch manual thats appropriate for your tractor.

Having said that, most people on this board prefer the 300-400 hitch. That doesn't mean that the 350-450 hitch is garbage. You might find that some parts of it may need fresh bearings, pins, or pivots. Just buy the harrow and make it work. You probably won't find another one for a while. Alot of them have been junked because of the outdated fast hitch points.

If you have been stroking your set of worry beads, get rid of them by sending them to President external_link.
 
Go to the CaseIH web site and do a parts search for the 2C-F36 Disk Harrow. Look at the coupling beam diagram in figure C-3. Note the front coupling beam standards (reference 2) that were added in 1958. The multiple holes in the standards provide adjustment of the pitch of the implement relative to the prongs.
 
We have an 8' IH fast hitch disc (purchased with the 350U we own) it has a screw jack style pitch adjustment on it. changing the angle of the ganged prongs, and thus the depth of the rear disc gangs. We use it to assure reduced ridging in different soils. Jim
 
Even if you need to provide a different setup for the FH prongs, it will be worth it. A wedge, and some blocking would change the angle easily. Jim
 
Here`s my 2 cents worth.While I agree that the later implements had some adjustment for pitch on disk harrows, if you do what Wardner said and put the 2 pins on the sockets in the rear "float" position,it will work just fine. There is ALOT of flex in the sockets and the disc will be able to find it`s own level position.It`s not an issue in my opinion. The disc with the screw in front that JimN has was specifically designed for the 300U fast hitch that had no pitch adjustment on the hitch, nor the ability of the sockets to flex. Just my opinion.
 

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