Thanks to all

I bought an H to mow our horse Pastures it came with a pull behind mower and got the whole mess for $1100.00 was really pleased, Got her home and pleased turned to "Oh Crap", Rough running and Puking oil smoke, Well me being me went to work trying to remedy some problems, Went on here to find some answers and found what I was looking for.
Started with the carb, disassembled and a good cleaning went to put it back together and utoh a part was missing the cone shaped nut that holds the idle tube had got legs and left for parts unknown, wondering what to do ended up at Lowes in the bolt dept and found a plastic nut that fit and put the carb on started and found an improvement in the way it ran though not able to fine tune for smooth running, Next new plugs old ones were really oil fouled, Put in d-15 plugs and again an improvement though am wondering about putting d-21 plugs in to help burn off the oil any thoughts on that, Next into uncharted territory for me the magneto, took it apart far enough to get to the points and noticed the old dead grease someone had put around the two gears opps removed the gears with out marking for reffrence, Thanks to some very smart folks on here was able to get it back together on the first try and timed right the first time, and finally adjusted the valves boy were they out, stuck .032 under two of them, anyway got them all set to .017 bolted stuff back up and started, Big Butt Smile, was running like a tractor that wanted to work.
Want thank all that posted on different threads with their knowledge, it sure helped out.
And now a couple of questions, What do you think about running a hotter plug because of the oil, Where might I look for the nut that holds the idle tube, I suspect since gas drips off the plastic nut I used until running that it is sucking air as the fuel stops dripping.
Now to order a manual.

The D15s are now used plugs, I would run them until they fowl (it will also give you an indication if one cyl is fowling more than others. Jim

The D15Y plugs will most likely be to cold a heat range for how you are going to be using your tractor and will foul out.

D15Y for heavy load use.
D18Y for moderate duty.
D21 for light duty.

Use those Champion numbers or cross them to the brand of your choice.

OK I'm a bonehead but at my age thats ok, Went to start the tractor today and it wouldn't even fire, Am wondering after running yesterday I shut of the fuel petcock to let it run out of fuel since the carb leaks but forgot to turn of the switch after it quit did I fry the points or maybe the coil, It has a magneto and someone put an external coil on it, Another thing shouldn't there be a condenser in the loop somewhere, If there is one I haven't seen it.
Don't have the time today troubleshoot it as the hunt club that hunts our land is having a cookout for us and the thought of some deer and bear sounds mighty good. So any thoughts on my dilemma would be appreciated.

Probably, you are using the points (and internal condenser) for a battery ignition system. It works well, but it will have issues with heat if left on. If the battery was still up, it is probable that either the coil burned out, or the points burned up. If it happened to stop with the points open (not a common stopping point for an engine) it might be something else.
With the battery charged, use a test light on the lead going into the side of the mag. This light will blink when the ignition is on, and the engine is cranked.
If it does not light, or blink, it could be several things from a bad amp meter, a bad ignition switch, a bad ballast resistor (if it has one) or a bad coil.
If no light at all, try testing the circuit from the coil all the way back top the battery.
If the points are fried, the light will stay on when cranking.
Good luck, let us know what happens. Jim