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IH Little Genius Plows

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Matt Weltz

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Hey guys!!! Looking to buy the 3-16 plow pictured below. I want something that is in good shape to use but also to pull in parades behind one of my many tractors. Guy says this plow is missing the jointers and the shares are worn on the sides and bottom. I know nothing about plows so what does this mean to me??? Are parts still available for these without breaking the bank? Does the plow pictured look complete and what might it be worth as it sits? Thanks for any help!!!
 
3-16 Plow
a24254.jpg
 
Jointers were usually taken off and thrown away because they cause more problems than they do good, different story on the coulters tho, you do need them and you have them. What you will have problems with is going down the road with that tail wheel shaking all over the place but I have seen where to control that they used a pair ov vicegrips clamped on the rod that controls the movement of the tail wheel so it cannot move.
 
Mine wags around TERRIBLE going down the road. That's all I do. There is a jamb nut on that rod and I use that on one side and the vice grip on the other and it works perfect. How is that whole tail wheel setup supposed to work?
The plow looks to be decent. I wouldn't worry about the worn moldboards. You will NEVER wear them out in your days. It takes hundreds of acres to wear one out. I paid $75 and $35 for my two plows.
 
Like Leroy said, don't worry about the jointers.

The biggest problem with those plows is the wear parts on the bottoms. The points, shares and moldboards are all NLA. Sounds like you are using it more as a focal piece though then a working plow, so maybe it doesn't matter.

Looks like a nice #8 though. Mechanical lift, hard to tell if it's a "long" model or not (the no-long versions can be made into 2 bottom setups).

K
 
I beg to differ on the jointers. They are indispensible while plowing a field on which there is vegetation that you don't want to regrow in the spring.
 
Wear parts on plows are EXPENSIVE, period.

Even worse is there are no parts available for that plow from a reliable source, at any price. You might find an odd new-old-stock share on Ebay once every couple of years, or some used parts, but that's about it.

The problem is there are so many different bottoms from that era, you can easily end up spending a lot of money on the wrong parts, too.

What to do depends on what you plan on doing...

Parade-only: Paint it up and don't worry about it.

A few rounds at a plow day once a year: Unless things are completely worn to the nub, and there is literally nothing left, it will last a long time as-is.

Worn out, and/or plowing several acres a year: Upgrade the bottoms to the newer Super Chief style by locating a newer parts plow and transferring the bottoms to this plow. They will bolt right on with 2 or 3 bolts per bottom.

Super Chief plow parts are still widely available, because CaseIH still sells plows with Super Chief bottoms.
 
They will usually cause the plow to plug, that is why the Yetter coulters were developed and we used them on all plows. Does the same job covering that trash and without the hastle. There was also a twin blade coulter that did the same thing but never used them and cannot think of the brand name now. But for plowing corn stalks or grass the jointers were gotten rid of. A piece of No. 9 wire about 10 ft long did a lot better job than the jointers. Started plowing about 55 years ago.
 
LeRoy,
I agree that jointers will give you fits in cornstalks, especially if stalks are not dry. I have them mounted for shows but take 'em off for plowing stalks. And that #9 wire trick is very effective; I first saw that in the mid-50s. Funny thing with the wire though....you eventually lose them due to wear and you never find them back in later years while working that field.
LA in WI
 
Thanks for the replies guys. Guess I wont worry about it as much for the few acres a year that I might plow. I really just want to have it for parades as I think it would look awesome behind my MD once I get it restored. Wobbly tail wheel concerns me a little so I may have to experiment with that. Also supposed to look at a 2 bottom this weekend but it has a steel tail wheel and not too sure I want to hear that clanging around on concrete during parades. Anyway, thanks again for the advice!!!
 
my 2 bottom has a clamp that you tighten down on that round rod that the tail wheel is on to keep the wheel locked so you can transport on the road
 
Where the shank for the coulters fastens to the beam just wrap it around so it is tight, both up and down over beam and forward and back around the shank close to the beam. and it should when you drop the plow find its way over and under the furrow slab, the only way it won't is if it gets cought under the share.
 
The jointers are the extra flipper fingers on the top of the moldboards? I plowed some HEAVY quackgrass last year and it didn't want to flip over very well. I guess I needed those!
Do you have a picture of the wire, bc I don't know my plow part words good enough to follow.
 
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