IH 1066 won't move

Was used to pull a 9" disc. Was parked. Was started again 2 weeks later and started right up.
But it won"t move forward, or backward. Gear levers feel like they go into gear, but with clutch in or out nothing happens. Can hear the slightest grinding sound sometimes if putting into gear position. Just won"t move. Any ideas why?

Three reasons I can think of that would result in no movement. But first a question. When you release the clutch with the transmission in gear, do you hear any kind of noise?
1. Clutch is stuck in released position. (Could be dragging slightly which would explain the 'grinding you hear.)
2. A stripped gear or input shaft to the transmission.
3. A broken axle.
Good luck.

I thought of one more thing. It could be broken crankshaft.

Low hydraulic pressure (MCV) or other hydraulic issues could cause the TA system to apply neither the locking clutch, or the direct clutch.
I would over fill the system with as much as 5 gallons. to see if it has an air leak on the intake side of the pumps. Over filling does not cause issues. Jim

Is that hydraulic light on? Does the light even work?

Allan

Is that hydraulic light on? Does the light even work?

Allan

With respect, a broken crank would not allow it to be started, as the ring gear would just spin the Flywheel, and not the engine. Jim

Yep,

My 966 pulled that stunt last winter. Wouldn't move a lick until that oil warmed up and got to circulating.

Guess I'm gonna have to fix that darned intermittent leak in the PS manual pump. :>)

Allan

Thanks for all your help. No, the light doesn't work. There have been no sounds like something breaking. It was literally used to disc for a couple days and then parked as usual. Then two weeks later it wouldn't budge. It does feel like it's harder to push the clutch down for some reason...other than I'm gettin old. The only thing I know of that actually happened is 1) The weather changed and the temp here dropped 20-30 degrees 2) A little hydraulic fluid leaked from the clutch assist and the power steering cylinder, maybe a quart. I will try putting a lot of hydraulic fluid in this weekend and warming it up a lot longer to see if it helps.

We had an engine on a stationary dynamometer for endurance testing and I was on the midnight shift
and something started making one heck of a noise.
Called the test director on the engine and he came in. I restarted the engine and it still make that loud noise. Drained out an oil sample and then the oil and dropped the pan and found a counter weight had broken, but was still together. Pulled the engine and the crankshaft and the dayshift installed a new shaft and continued testing later that day. Sure made you wake up in a hurry. I hadn't been out of the Army very long back in 1956. Hal

Frankly you could let it warm up until he!! freezes over and I don't think it's going to help.

It's still above freezing where you are, right? The oil is still plenty liquid, especially hytran which is pretty thin to begin with.

Check your ta dump valve in the multiple control valve on the left side behind the clutch housing. I bought a 706 once that the owner was sure the ta was toast asit would not move at all. After paying for it,I tapped the dump valve with a hammer,it went in and the tractor worked fine.

Does your power steering and power brakes work. If not, the low side of the ta is shot and you are not building hyd pressure to engage the direct drive as the low side is strictly mechanical and will drive without any hydraulics what so ever even if dump valve is stuck. If steering works, dump valve may be stuck open which would account for no pressure to direct drive and low side being shot will not drive. Of course other things can be wrong also.

Obviously you are absolutely correct. My bad. What was I thinking?

I would be suspecting shift linkage first, these get really sloppy with age, linkage ball joints, rolled pins shear, look in on shift levers at top linkage and on top of trans covers to see if everything moving full stroke.

Thanks again to you all. If anyone can send me a picture or diagram of the dump valve I should check, I would appreciate it. [email protected]

Harder to push clutch on a tractor with hyd. clutch assist means no pressure from MCV pump. This pump also provides pressure for steering, brakes and TA operation. If everything was working two weeks ago, it sounds like MCV pump has lost prime, possibly from low oil level. First, change hydraulic filter and clean bypass screen and fill transmission to full level on dipstick. Check the dump valve as others suggested. I would put a jack under the front end and get most weight off the wheels , then start engine. It might take a minute or more for the pump to prime , but I believe that it will. When it does cycle steering wheel from side to side full limit, also cycle clutch pedal, brakes and TA. When the pump primes and charges the system, you've got to get the air worked out of all parts of the system.
Sometimes for unknown reasons these old tractors lose prime in the MCV pump. My 756 did a while back after it sat a couple of weeks while I was waiting to get a new injection pump delivered and installing it. Started it and no steering, brakes, etc. Managed to get it aimed downhill a little and parked it . Let it sit for a while and when I restarted it I heard the pump take hold of oil and prime. Everything worked and has since. Good luck.