Farmall H Advanced Timing

Hello all,
Had a few oil leaks on the H. Figured I'd tune it up with new plugs, cap, & rotor. I put a re-curve kit in the distributor, using the light springs while I was there. I static timed it because I did have the distributor out. I didn't, but probably should have, checked the advance with a timing light. It starts quick and runs great. Its got a woods L59 on it, which really doesn't add much of a load to it, but when I was mowing today, I noticed the throttle response wasn't quite what I wanted or think it should be. It's not a puller, and it really doesn't see any heavy work, other than occasional log skidding. It's a lawn mower and snowplow mainly. I do any heavier work with my SM. Theres no miss or anything wild like that. It just doesn't seem to pick up like I thought it would. How do you all time your tractors? By ear? or static time it and just lock everything down? Thinking about advancing it a little....any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks, Shawn

I time them by ear to get the best throttle response, and back it off a little if it does not idle smoothly. Might do it 3 or 4 times before I am satisfied it is as good as it will be.

Timing curves are designed to put a spark into the cylinder at just the instant that causes the flame front from the burning fuel (it does not explode)to reach full cylinder pressure at about 4 to 8 degrees after TDC. If it is too early, the pressure causes detonation as there is no where for the pressure to go. If late, the piston is too far down and speeding up such that the fuel has less to do. Chancing the springs may have changed this position in a way that makes less power for your fuel/work/RPM. I would make sure the timing is at TDC static, then check it with a light. to assess the point of full advance. I would guess it is at 1300RPM (but do not know the spec.). Try the old springs if it is timed at TDC static. Adjust it if it is not at TDC static. Jim

Just a thought have you checked yor gas flow? it could possibly help the response

Real Simple :

First off i run a antique tractor Dyno Service.

I time them with a "digital" timing light with a tach built in ...

Never mind factory settings and marks...
Grant you there a good starting point , but these engines are 50 years old and sloppy .

Run the tractor up to full RPM and adjust the dist. tell you get max RPM and lock it down.

This works best under load on the dyno but you will be happy with it this way.

If it has a belt pully throw a nice load on it and set timing down around 1000 rpm ware the motor would be working hard.

You will be surperized at the results. We have found that on non pulling tractors the light springs actually hurt performance , the advance comes in to quick.

Added compression is your friend it makes a world of differance in everyday working tractors.


I own four Farmalls .
Restored.
52 Super M [ Puller ] 450 head cut Race fuel

52 W-6 Restored 8060 head cut .040 pump gas

54-Cub head cut .100 pump gas

55-Cub Restored head cut .060 pump gas


Cutting the heads on the cubs [ flat heads ] L-60 motors was a hugh power gain. I plow snow with both of them .I used to use 1st and 2nd gear only to plow. I now use 2nd and 3rd all the time .

I know this got long winded but cylinder presure also will help you get cheap easy power.

So, I put a timing light on it. The distributor isn"t advancing, at least not much. I didn"t run it at WOT because its late and the family is sleeping, but I brought it up to just under half throttle. Timing marks didn"t even move. The light is very consistant on the marks too. No worn bushings or slop, just not advancing. I"m gonna pull it again tommorrow and see what"s going on. Maybe the springs broke. Thanks alot for the input... Shawn

As you said you had it apart you no doubt noticed the degree of advance shaft you have assuming you have the IH distributor. It can be one of several, like 25degrees, 30 degrees or 40 degrees. Normally if all is in good shape they will be timed to tdc at very low idle speed and gradually increase to max advance at rated engine speed. With normal gasoline engine, flat head pistons, thinwall sleeves the engine will perform overall best at 30 degree advance. You can do any variation that suits you. There are so many variations in pistons and head changes that it is really difficult to give an exact figure but it for sure has to advance when engine speed increases. Too much it will run ragged unloaded, detonate under load, too little it will sound dead and lack pep and power.