super h deck

ridetoslide · Oct 2, 2010

I have a 54 Super H with the battery box mounted under the seat on top of the deck platform. I haven't had this tractor long and one of my first things to do is replace that crusty, rusty, severely rotted battery box. The old battery box fell right off. Now for the problem. Every bolt that goes thru the deck platform is severely corroded to the point no wrench or chisel will work. I just tried drilling out one of the bolts then used a broken bolt extractor. No luck. Put heat to it, still no luck. Any other ideas? I'm thinking I may have to use a torch to burn out the bolt holes then lift the platform off. That may ruin the deck though. Will a regular H platform interchange? Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Wardner · Oct 2, 2010

A H lid won't have the holes for the battery box and will have other holes that you won't use. Otherwise I think it will work.

But I wouldn't go that way. Rent or borrow a mag drill. Make sure the ways are tight. Center punch and hand drill each bolt with a 1/4" or smaller pilot for about 1/4". Stop the 7/16th drill 1/2" before it reaches the frame. I say 7/16th because that is what's used on the bigger tractors. Don't know about a H. You want to leave a stub so that you can put a vice-gtip on it. At that point, use heat on the frame if necessary.

Set up an overhead hoist. Get some small wedges.

Janicholson · Oct 2, 2010

Heat each bolt head, red hot, with an acetylene/oxygen torch (use the cutting head, but do not use the oxygen lever, just heat).
Let them cool as they cool, put a bit of candle wax in the recess wit them (maybe a birthday candle size chunk) It will melt and get into the threads. Use a wrench on them when cold, tighten and loosen just a little back and forth, do not twist them off. A bolt intact is far easier to remove than a broken bolt. If it still is stuck, heat them red again. and start over. Jim

Roger46 · Oct 2, 2010

I have taken many of those off by the method Jim described below. But if you have one broken off I have been using a technique my old welding shop teacher taught me many years ago. I clamp a nut in a Vise-grip and clamp the nut over the broken bolt. Then I weld the nut to the broken bolt by starting at the bottom of the nut at the bolt and welding the nut full. Then let it cool and carefully (working back and forth) loosen the nut. If it doesn't want to come off heat the nut by Jim's method below. The only thing to be careful about is welding to the case, which seldom happens as it usually doesn't want to stick to cast iron. Make sure to use a smaller nut to prevent this especially on those bolts which I think are 1/2". Roger

sflem849 · Oct 2, 2010

(quoted from post at 17:15:19 10/02/10) I have taken many of those off by the method Jim described below. But if you have one broken off I have been using a technique my old welding shop teacher taught me many years ago. I clamp a nut in a Vise-grip and clamp the nut over the broken bolt. Then I weld the nut to the broken bolt by starting at the bottom of the nut at the bolt and welding the nut full. Then let it cool and carefully (working back and forth) loosen the nut. If it doesn't want to come off heat the nut by Jim's method below. The only thing to be careful about is welding to the case, which seldom happens as it usually doesn't want to stick to cast iron. Make sure to use a smaller nut to prevent this especially on those bolts which I think are 1/2". Roger

That is what I do for damaged/broken bolts as well. It is a double whamy bc it heats AND gives you something to turn.

glennster · Oct 2, 2010

if its just the bolts that hold the seat on, i do not think they go all the way through the cover. on my m and super m, the bolt holes bottom out without getting into the trans/differential case. you could drill and use heli-coils or thread serts and not have to remove the deck. also, if you see a tool truck going down the road, ie matco-mac-snap-on or cornwell, flag the guy over and pick up a set of left hand drill bits and extractors. the set has about 5 bits and 5 extractors for around 60 dollars or so. use the left hand bits when you drill, often when they snag, they will spin the bolt right out.

ridetoslide · Oct 10, 2010

Thank you all for the replies. I have only messed with it briefly when unfortunately a death in the family put this on hold. I did get a mag drill and began drilling out a bolt. Used a extractor, but no way is it budging. Some of the ideas below are very good but in this application don"t think they will work. The deck has dimples or recesses around the bolts that hold the deck on, which is a perfect place for water/ice/snow to sit. The heads are so corroded you can"t even tell it is a bolt head. Can"t weld to them, nothing there. But, if I drill them out, stick a small bolt in the hole I may be able to weld that. Or, if i burn the badly rusted/corroded remaining bolt heads off, I shhould be able to lift the deck off right? The bolts in the middle of the deck that bolt the beattery box down from inside it, someone said they are not "thru" bolts, is that correct? The heads on those 2 look like a mound of rust. Thanks again fellas.

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