Working M, won't start, emergency!

Mr77FM · Sep 15, 2010

My 47, M, which is used regularly and has never failed me in below 0, winter or 90 dgree summer days. After sitting about a week took about 5, minute's to start. Pretty rare for a tractor that cranked after 5, or 6, turns. However, the next day after that it started right up. When you stop turning the engine over now there's a gurgling sound then there's a burst of air and gas out the back of the carburetor then gas pours out the back. Yet the plug's are dry. About 5, minutes later when trying to start it will fire up for a few seconds and then die. There was some sediment in the fuel filter. Cleaned the line and drained the tank checked the tank for rust, trash, and signs condensation.
I checked the plug's clean and dry, doesn't appear to be any problem with the ignitition. Removed carburetor very clean no dirt or rust. Removed and cleaned all jet's replaced gasket's.
Well that's about it. Suggestion's? This was my working tractor and I need it to continue so for a time.

rustyfarmall · Sep 15, 2010

Take the valve cover off and observe the valves and rockers as you crank it over. I hope not, but it almost sounds like maybe the cam gear has let go.

armand tatro · Sep 15, 2010

Does this tractor have a live hyd. pump driven by the dist. drive. If so you may hav a broken cam/timing gear. To get to the the timing gears you have to remove the front bolster, radiator, crankshaft pully, and front cover. To get to a couple of front cover bolts they come off from the dist/hyd. pump side of the block. You need the front support stand of the splitting stand assy. to safly support the engine half of the tractor. Armand P.s. Let us know what you. find.

Mr77FM · Sep 15, 2010

Gee Tatro, I hope it doesn"t come to that. I already have a Super C, taking up most of the work space.
As Rusty Farmall, suggested, I removed the valve cover to check for problems. However, the area was pretty clean no sludge evidence of excessive ware or heat.The valves, linkage, rods, springs, all seemed to be in good shape and moving in sequence to their assigned cylinder.
Thank you both for your suggestion"s and I will keep a list for head"s up.

El Toro · Sep 16, 2010

Hold your hand over the throat of the carburetor and see if there's good suction. You will need a helper to make an attempt to start the engine.
If there's not much suction means you have low intake manifold vacuum that's necessary to draw that fuel into the engine. Check your intake manifold to make sure it is tight and not leaking. I would do a compression check to see what that is and compare the readings. Worn sleeves and valves not seating can cause low intake manifold vacuum. Hal

rustyfarmall · Sep 16, 2010

(quoted from post at 18:43:38 09/15/10) Gee Tatro, I hope it doesn"t come to that. I already have a Super C, taking up most of the work space.
As Rusty Farmall, suggested, I removed the valve cover to check for problems. However, the area was pretty clean no sludge evidence of excessive ware or heat.The valves, linkage, rods, springs, all seemed to be in good shape and moving in sequence to their assigned cylinder.
Thank you both for your suggestion"s and I will keep a list for head"s up.

Maybe you already did this, but there might be a problem with the distributor cap and/or rotor? Ignition coils can sometimes make you pull your hair out also, until you finally give up and put on a new one.

Working M, won't start, emergency!

Mr77FM

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rustyfarmall

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armand tatro

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Mr77FM

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El Toro

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rustyfarmall

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