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Farmall M 12 Volt Conversion.

S

Stemmy

Member
[b:4f1b2b2a55]I know this has probably been discussed many times but....

I have a 1950 Farmall M, it was my dad's but he's neglected it for the past 12-15 years so I have decided to fix it up and get it running again. I just put new points, condensor, dist. cap, rotor, plugs & wires in it, but the wiring on it is in need of some work. Long story short I am going to convert it over to 12 Volt, I've been searching but I cant really find what im looking for.

I'll probably get the 12 vlt conv. kit and everything else I need (coil, ign switch etc) from here. I'd just like to know more abt it before I jump into doing this. A step by step writeup/thread with pics would be awesome for this but I cant seem to find one.

Any info/pics or help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in Advance.

~Robby[/b:4f1b2b2a55]
 
Here you go.
Compliments of Bob M.

http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m46/farmallbob/Farmall%20Tractor%20Wiring%20Diagrams/
 
GO TO YOUR LOCAL PARTS STORE AND BY A GM 1 WIRE ALT WITH A SELF EXCITER CIRCUIT. ALSO PICK UP ABOUT 16 FT OF 6-8 GAUGE WIRE AND EYELETS TO FIT THE ALT STUD AND AMP METER. OK HERE COMES THE HARD PART MOUNT THE ALT,RUN THE WIRE FROM THE STUD ON THE ALT TO THE AMP GAUGE,THEN RUN A PIECE OF THE WIRE FROM THE OTHER TERMINAL ON THE AMP GAUGE TO THE POSITVE POST ON YOUR STARTER SWITCH[ THE ONE DIRECTLY FROM THE BATT] AND YOUR DONE!OH IF YOUR AMP GAUGE GO'S NEG CHARGE SWITCH THE WIRES ON THE AMP GAUGE. OTHER THAN MOUNTING THE ALT THE WIREING JOB SHOULD TAKE 15 MIN. DONE THIS WITH ALL NINE OF MINE AND SHOULD BE OUT THE DOOR FOR ABOUT 70-80 DOLLARS WITH OUT THE 12 BATT. ANY QUESTIONS EMAIL ME.
 
The single wire systems can work OK but often do not charge until the tractor is at High RPM, then is OK after that each time. They also can draw down a battery unless used (the field is continuously left excited to one degree or another)
Bob's diagram supplied by Yugrotcart, is the best possible answer. Many will say they have fine luck with one wire systems. Some do. Some do not. The system given in Bob's diagrams is the same as it is applied in the cars it came out of. Jim
 
ballast resistor reduces the voltage to the stock coil to allow it to work correctly with the 12v sys.
It is used between the ign switch, and the coil. one from a mid sixties chev, or similar dodge will be fine. Jim
 
If you get a coil that is clearly marked (12v, no external resistor needed) it fine without the resistor. Jim
 
cool beans. thats what I thought but I wasnt sure. Thanks everybody for the help I really appreciate it.
 
one more question (for now lol)....

What can I use for an ignition switch, right now its setup with a toggle switch (power on/off) and a small push button for the starter, can I still use this when I do the 12 volt conv. or should I get a key type ignition switch?
 
You will have to elongate the mounting bracket holes & turn the bracket upside down. Use a piece of threaded rod & washers & nuts to get proper spacing to line up the belt. A smaller belt might be in order--ours takes a 42.5 inch belt now. Makes the alt. fit under the hood better. I always use a 3 wire alt.
 
I was thinking about getting the original style on/off switch and push button starter that is located down near the floor, just to clean things up a bit. Also if I get that style starter button I wont need a starter solenoid like is on the tractor now. (atleast thats whats shown in the owners/operators manual that I have, correct me if im wrong.)

wm_62801DC.jpg

wm_1996487.jpg
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The original switch is not as shown in your pic. The original has a mushroom shaped button made from painted whitemetal. the body is cylindrical with two terminals on the rear of it.
Jim
 
I know what switch your talkin about, I didnt see it on here when I was looking at parts. The on/off switch I posted up was listed for 6V, would it be ok to use on 12V? I dont think there would be a difference for a switch? but I may be wrong. Im a newbie when It comes to the 6 volt stuff.
 
There are no differences between switches for 12v and 6v. It is only necessary to assure they will carry the amps. The standard Original switch is good to go for either. Generally a 6 volt use of a 12 volt switch is OK if you select a switch with twice the amp rating of the circuit. Most are rated for 20 amps, and that is sufficient for all but starting current, and alternator output (and that is not switched) Jim
 
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