Adjustable wide front

farmall706 · Sep 11, 2010

Does anyone have any suggestions for adjusting the tube or axle out. The one side moved pretty easy. The other side, I pulled the pin, and placed a smaller bolt to allow some movement, drove around and it will not move. I also tryed to bump against a tree to move it? It is solid. I have soaked it down with PB blaster. it will not free up?

Thanks for any thoughts

State of Jefferson · Sep 11, 2010

Mine was a real bear to get broken free. Ended up with 2 rosebud torches and alot of swinging a BFH. Wrecked the knees in the process.
Yours likely isn't that bad if you got the one side to move. I've seen the axle chained between a tree and another tractor to pull em apart... You could take the one side totally out and slide somethin through the center section to beat on...

Good luck.

Ben

mike paulson · Sep 12, 2010

yea a come along (might wanna tether it with a chain so it don't shoot out and hit you)and heat. put the come along on and crank it up real good, ad the heat while someone else hammers. if you have a rosebud that is the way to go..

railhead · Sep 12, 2010

I like the idea of pulling it with a chain and I would use a ratchet binder. After securing the tractor on opposite side, pull the axle tube, get the chain TIGHT, then some love taps from a bfh. retighten, retap, retighten retap til you get it free. Use patience and plenty of penetrating oil, more of both those than hammer blows or heat. remember to pull it straight out, dont hook the chain low on the spindle etc, where it will pull the tube crooked, hook in line with the tube itself as best you can.

Allan in NE · Sep 12, 2010

And, if I could add,

Don't try to pull it out "steady". It needs to be "jerked" but not to the point of breaking the chain.

Just "bump" it good and it will come.

Allan

Dave H (MI) · Sep 12, 2010

In my considerable experience in doing this type of thing, best results are to heat it ahead of time and apply a loosening agent as it cools. I use PB Blaster on small parts but on a larger part such as this I squirt old motor oil into every crack. The cooling sucks it in while the metal contracts, breaking the rust bond. Banging while heating, once again my opinion, is likely to make it harder and might deform something.

MeanGene1 · Sep 12, 2010

We used to have to switch our 706D's from plowing @ 84" to 60" for the cultivators and back each year, and if we had a stuck one, we'd park it between two trucks, anchor the other side and put a come-along on the stuck side, plenty of WD-40, tension it up, and let it set overnight, kinda like hanging a weight from a wrench on a stuck engine- usually popped loose the first night. We learned to clean the tube up good and coat it with grease before sliding it back in, you could also drill some small holes in the top and keep it oiled, or tap them for zerks

Farmall-H · Sep 12, 2010

I was always told, "metal is strong, but not stronger than heat".

Adjustable wide front

farmall706

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State of Jefferson

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mike paulson

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railhead

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Allan in NE

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Dave H (MI)

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MeanGene1

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Farmall-H

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