15W40 Farmall H air cleaner oil???

Is it ok to use 15W40 in the air cleaner of a Farmall H? I use IH low ash 30 wt in the engine. Somebody gave me a gallon of new 15W40. Thanks!!
 
IH says to use 30w so you better stick with it. Anything thinner and you risk oil getting sucked into carb, anything thicker and you won't have the right filtration. Go and spend the $1.xx for a quart and do it right.
 
I have used 15-40 for many years in the oil bathe air filter and never had a problem but you do what you feel comfortable with.
 
use the kiss system: winter thin oil.

summer thicker oil..
i use 15-40 all the time in summer.
in winter 10w is fine.
 
(quoted from post at 18:34:40 09/09/10) IH says to use 30w so you better stick with it. Anything thinner and you risk oil getting sucked into carb, anything thicker and you won't have the right filtration. Go and spend the $1.xx for a quart and do it right.

Are you sure about that? I believe the manual says to use the same weight oil that you are using in the engine. And my standard disclaimer when it comes to oil - The manual also states to use SAE 30 in the hydraulics...is the manual always right?
 
When The H"s and M,s etc. were new there was no multigrade oils or hydraulic oil as we know it today, so they used straight weight motor oils.
 
I agree with Allen as long as it's any [u:49a0c821a9]engine weight[/u:49a0c821a9] oil. Looks like a good place to use up some free oil.
 
(quoted from post at 21:34:59 09/09/10)
(quoted from post at 18:34:40 09/09/10) IH says to use 30w so you better stick with it. Anything thinner and you risk oil getting sucked into carb, anything thicker and you won't have the right filtration. Go and spend the $1.xx for a quart and do it right.

Are you sure about that? I believe the manual says to use the same weight oil that you are using in the engine. And my standard disclaimer when it comes to oil - The manual also states to use SAE 30 in the hydraulics...is the manual always right?

I take that to mean you don't need to buy a diferent oil to use in the air cleaner than you use in the engine .
 
Use it in both engine and Cleaner it will be fine. Multi wy oil is no thicker than its low number when cold, (plenty thick) and no thinner than its higher number when hot. It is just not a problem at all. Jim
 
I would tend to use SAE 30 on the rather remote chance that it would be sucked out of the container at the bottom. 15W40, maybe not, I would not use 10W30.
 
In response to those who think the thin oil will be sucked out of the cleaner, I don't think so. Years ago my main tractor was a Super C that had to start all winter long for snow removal etc. I used to fill the cup with half oil & half HEET. I had no problems & it always started easy. The Heet kept the moisture from fouling the plugs.
 
I see no reason to even change the oil. It wouldn't even bother me to use old crankcase oil. After all, it is not being used for lubrication. The collected dirt should be removed by pouring off the oil and cleaning the crud in the bottom of the cup. Put the old oil back in.

Best of all is to heave the inefficient oil bath air "cleaner" and replace it with a pleated paper filter. I would like to see some data regarding the relative performance of both types of filters. It wouldn't surprise me to see that oil bath filters pass large amounts of dust. Is there any wonder that those antique filters are no longer manufactured?
 
The reason the oil bath filters are no longer built is because (1) it takes a little elbow grease to service 'em, and (2) the market-place can't sell ya a new filter every now and again.

I would guess that the old oil-baths are probably way, way better than the paper types at filtration.

Now, don't get me started on the "absolute necessity" of gasket sealer. That's another market-generated topic that sends me off. :>)

Allan
 
If you want to witness a real scam, look at an expensive K&N aftermarket air filter. Those are pure engine abuse.

I think we have all seen intake pipes on oil bath Farmalls that have dried mud deposited in the ID. Yep, oil is a component of that mud but solids are getting past the filter. Today's engines don't receive anywhere near the overhauls and ring jobs of the older products when they were current production. Most of that is due to air filtration and paved roads.

One of my first compressors when I was in the sandblasting business was equipped with a 4-53 Detroit. Serial number was somewhere between 200-300. DD's use twice as much air as four strokes. When I changed over to a Farr Air Cleaner with the multi-tube pleated elements and each having a centrifical pre-cleaner, my annual overhauls were over.
 
"heave the inefficient oil bath air "cleaner"???
not so, its the other way around.its More efficient than the paper ones.
 
i wholeheartely agree with wardner on this one. i remember reading a study by the ASAE a long time back that said that the dry air filter was the biggest cause for the jump in engine longevity. this site is the only place i have ever seen that thinks a oil bath air cleaner is better than a paper element one or that a magneto is better than a distributor.
 
Not going to get into the argument without seeing some data, but to me it makes sense that dust can get through the oil bath in the air "bubbles" or streams... not every cc of air will touch the oil. With a "good quality" paper element, the particles need to be pretty darn small to get through.
As for the K&N filters, they have their place... we used one on our dirt Late Model so there was less restriction, not nessesarily because it cleaned the air better... it also needs an oil film to attract dirt and needed cleaning and re-oiling after every race. I would not put one on a street vehicle.
 
Maybe the best of both worlds? I saw a 340 utility with the oil bath air cleaner. The owner removed the precleaner and replaced it with a small housing with a dry filter inside. I don't know if he kept oil in the oil bath one. A little funny looking. Every one can do what they want. I keep mine original.
 
i am going with what our mechanics instructor told us in class.Its not about air touching the oil, its the dirt thats slammed into the oil.
 
(quoted from post at 16:34:32 09/10/10) i am going with what our mechanics instructor told us in class.Its not about air touching the oil, its the dirt thats slammed into the oil.

And the film of oil on the mesh screens on the way up to the engine.
 

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