Rebuilding gear teeth by welding

I've acquired a '41 M with a half a tooth missing from the input shaft gear. I want to try and build the tooth back up.

Has anyone tried this and what kind of rod did you use and how did it turn out?

We had a machine shop to rebuild one. I would contact a machine shop. I hope this helps. Keith

Well, really I just want to repair this myself to see if I can do it. The transmission and the tractor as a whole is pretty well worn and I'm not too worried about it. I'm going to put the loader on it and use it as a chore tractor. If it were more critical I would simply replace it with another input shaft. I appreciate the thought however.

However I end up fixing it I'll share the results right here.

I would vee it start at bottom with 7018, build tooth w/multiple passes...grind to suit.

Years ago Dad put made anew tooth on a gear off a baler using baling wire & a actylene torch. Guy that he made it for said the tooth was still in good shape several years later when he traded the baler off.

I don't have 10% of Dad's welding talent so if it was me I'd take the gear o a machine shop. If you don't do it right you could end up having to replace more than just that gear. I don't mind trying things I don't know as long as it's not going to cost me anymore than the damage already done.

years ago a friend of mine shelled the gear box on his brush hog, he thought he could salvage the drive gear by welding up the teeth. It did work, but you could hear him hogging 5 miles off.

If you take it out to weld it (the only way to even consider the job without getting spatter on other gears and destroying things then getting grinding dust into everything) then putting a good gear into the trans is 3000 times more likely to be satisfactory. It is done only when a gear is irreplaceable, and then by a machine shop with profile grinding tools and heat treatment. casehardening ovens. Even a beater tractor deserves parts that make it serviceable and avoid the haul to China. Jim

Brings back many memories. I am not a welder but a lot of the customers 40 or 50 years ago would have the gears welded up that I took out of the tractor. Lets just say it was 99 percent of the time futile. Bull gears were the usual ones they tried on like an M Farmall. One time a gear had 13 teeth severely damaged and guy wanted to know if he should take it and have it welded.

As far as being a beater tractor goes, I saved this very one. The gentlemen that had it was going to haul it for scrap. He had bought it and a number of other things from an estate for that very purpose and I just happened to intercept it at the right time.

Unfortunately he had ruined the grill from careless loading and unloading, along with other minor damage. What it does have is a perfectly good replacement radiator that escaped damage, Lambert disc brakes, Ensign LP carb and regulator (correct for the two LP Super M's I've rescued) and one of the original beveled rims (I need it for another '41 that I have set aside to actually Restore).

When the pilot bearing let go on this one there was quite a bit of lateral damage done to the transmission gears, perhaps they were finishing something in the field, who knows. The broken tooth is the worst of it, but other gears have suffered visible debris damage along with surface rust on the teeth above the oil line from sitting for no telling how long. The ring gear looks to have an honest .125 worn off the drive side as viewed from the oil service plug. Did I mention the huge patch on the bottom of the final drive?

Yes, this one is being rescued and I don't see the harm in trying to _learn_ something by practicing on what would otherwise be a scrap part anyway. I believe there's enough there to build up on and retain sufficient strength, though once out I will look at it very closely to see if there's further cracking. I would actually be much less inclined to weld up teeth in the final drive since they "see" more load than does the input shaft set.