Is there a trick for fixing a woobling 400 clutch pedal

I have a Farmall 400 that when the clutch pedal is depressed pivots to the side so much it actually clears the deck. Does it have a bushing that causes all the slop in the pedal? Any assistance would be appreciated.
 
Repair isputting a bushing where there was none.
The shaft if worn more than .003" will need to be turned down and polished to remove the wear, then the bushing fit to the shaft with .001-.112 clearance. Drill a hole for grease to enter the bushing. Jim
 
OEM Tractor Parts will furnish a new shaft, bushing, and machine work for one price if you send them your pedal. They might even toss in two seals in the kit.
 
My one SMD is that way, pedal goes sideways & right outside the platform, funny as the tractor has 1800 hrs on it, and the waffling on the pedals is like new, someone must have ridden that pedal or? I just fired it up and moved it 10 min ago, gotta get around to pulling that pedal and fixing it
 
(quoted from post at 11:35:56 09/06/10) OEM Tractor Parts will furnish a new shaft, bushing, and machine work for one price if you send them your pedal. They might even toss in two seals in the kit.

I've no experience with the shafts from OEM, but I do have experience with those shafts from other places, and they are made totally wrong and will not work. We finally gave up and had the original, worn out shaft built up and remachined.
 
Most times the shafts are worn as much or more than the hole in clutch pedal. Since the seal rides on the shaft not far from the inside of the pedal, and the brake rod operating bracket goes on the shaft just to the outside of pedal the shaft needs to stay original size or bigger just in the pedal piviot area. Have the shaft built up and turned back to original size and pedal bored and bushing installed. Or build shaft bigger only at clutch piviot area then bore pedal to fit. With the last option the shaft always has to be installed or removed from the left side of tractor. Also with that option the shaft is built up bigger wider and then cut to original size at each side of piviot area. That will restore shaft size at the left shaft seal if needed.
Other option is to replace parts.
 
connecting rod pin bushing from a d282 fits in there nicely i beleive you need 2 of them. i fixed my super m clutch pedal this way. some used bushings are the best new bushings are a snug fit but it will work with some minor filing.
 
(quoted from post at 12:18:43 09/06/10) I have a Farmall 400 that when the clutch pedal is depressed pivots to the side so much it actually clears the deck. Does it have a bushing that causes all the slop in the pedal? Any assistance would be appreciated.

I had to do that fix on a couple of Farmall 400s. The clutch pedal originally did not have a bushing, you will have to have a machine shop bore the pedal and install a bushing. You will find that the shaft is worn too. Once you remove the brake linkage from the shaft, it will pull right out. Stick a short piece of 1.125" shaft into each side where the shaft stuck out, this will keep the oil from dripping out!

You can either weld up the worn areas on the shaft and then grind smooth or have a new shaft made. I had a new brake shaft made for the one 400, cost $50. On the other 400 I just welded and ground the original shaft. Local machine shop charged me $60 each to bore and install bushings in the two clutch pedals.
 
They are correct from OEM, provided they send the right one. Sent me a Super H one for my 460, same shaft, different keyway. They got it right the second time.
 

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