battery starting trouble

Help - few month old 8v battery - started every 3 days or so no prob - yesterday one crank and dead. last battery from battery plus was bad (they said it was bad) wondering if this is the same trouble. I charged it as told with a 6v manual charger - but still one crank and dead. doesn"t seem to be any draw at the amp meter. any suggestions what I can check? I am not a tractor/auto electric expert as you can tell. thanks
 
Many 8v batteries stay on the shelf beyond (their "expiration date" it could be that they were on the shelf too long. It is also not easy to charge an 8 volt battery. a 12v charger will overheat them unless watched continuously. a 6v charger will not do much, they need 9.8 to 10.2 volts to get fully charged. A 6v battery will work well if the cables are 00 GAUGE, and the system is maintained. (or the 12v conversion (which I prefer) Jim
 
Its pretty fast n easy n usually free to do A LOAD TEST on that battery which is whats really needed. In the event it tests okay Id remove, clean n wire brush, n re atatch each n evey battery n ground n starter n switch connection and insure the ground is to a good solid frame member NOT any thin wimpy rusty sheet metal. It depends on the charger but a slow low amp charge using a 12 volt charger could work just keep an eye on it to avoid overcharging i.e. too much bubbling and outgassing and/or excess current draw. Of course (if the battery is okay???), the starter itself or the switch may be at fault but Id try the above first ESPECIALLY the battery load test

John T
 
8 volt battery! 6 volt generator ? use a 6 volt battery with 00 cables on both pos. and neg. and make sure the ground cable is bolted directly to a starter mounting bolt . 8 volt battery belongs in a golf cart.
 
There are 2 easy things to do:

1) Check the fluid/acid level. Batteries are dry shipped and dry charged. Maybe someone at the store forgot to fill with acid before putting on the shelf.
2.) Check the voltage on the battery. Should be around 6.3 - 6.5 for a full charge battery.
 
had the battery tested yesterday and they said it was fine. one crank and it "dies" can someone explain how I can test the starter? or if there is a draw on the battery? the ampmeter says no draw when everything is off. thanks
 
To test a battery it must be fully charged, and the test must include a high amp load test with simultaneous voltage readings. Ho was it charged, and for how long. If the battery is good, Look to John T (who is a superior source of solid thought out answers to electrical reality (and legal issues as well). I would do a specific gravity test on each cell with a cheap ball floating tester they all need to float the same # of balls. With a real Hydrometer a charged battery should be above 1.240.
Cells should be within .020 units of each other. Jim
 
got it tested at autozone on their machine. they said it was good so now I have to figure out what else could be wrong. have to figure out how to test the starter
 
The next most likely cause of your problem is DIRTY BATTERY CONNECTIONS, as mentioned earlier.

It's also the cheapest and easiest one to fix.

Take everything off and clean up the connections. Clean, bright, and tight.

If you have temporary replacement connections on the battery terminal end of the cables, take them off, clean them up. Clip off the stripped end of the cable and strip off new clean copper before reassembly.
 
Yes, these were 6 volt from the factory. The generator is 6 volt, and will not maintain an 8 volt battery. As indicated, all connections, at both ends, need to be clean and tight.

Your problem could also be at the starter. I would have the starter tested at a starter/generator shop. You could have a dead spot on the armature.
 
Testing is a waste of time. Either replace or don't replace.

I have taken batteries, alternators, starters to the auto parts stores for so-called "testing," and without fail, been told that the starter, alternator, or battery is "good."

Further, I read story after story on this board and others who have taken their batteries, starters, and alternators for testing, and without fail, they're always "good."

Yet, we all continue to have problems. Even after replacing everything else but that starter, alternator, or battery that was declared "good." After we replace that starter, alternator, or battery, everything works fine.

IMHO, the "testers" at auto parts stores are worthless. They tell you nothing...
 
Wow - so why in the world would there have been an 8volt battery on the tractor? the guy I bought it from was the original owner from 49. I will look in the manual for the battery spec and get the right one for starters, clean all the connections and go from there. thanks!
 
(quoted from post at 07:34:00 09/07/10) Wow - so why in the world would there have been an 8volt battery on the tractor? the guy I bought it from was the original owner from 49. I will look in the manual for the battery spec and get the right one for starters, clean all the connections and go from there. thanks!

An 8 volt battery was more or less a "band-aid" fix for starting issues that were actually the result of poor maintenance. If the 8 volt battery was properly installed, and the charging system "tweeked" a bit, it would improve cold weather cranking somewhat, but still was not much, if any, better than a properly maintained 6 volt system with the CORRECT sized battery cables. The 8 volt battery was a very popular "fix" back in the day before cars, trucks, and farm tractors all went to the 12 volt battery.
 
so what is the best thing to do at this point? go back to the 6 and clean everything or go to 12? $$ is an issue - I need this tractor to run!
 
(quoted from post at 07:34:00 09/07/10) Wow - so why in the world would there have been an 8volt battery on the tractor

8 Volt battery is a "band aid" for bad battery cables and worn-out starters.
 
(quoted from post at 08:51:16 09/07/10) so what is the best thing to do at this point? go back to the 6 and clean everything or go to 12? $$ is an issue - I need this tractor to run!

If the original 6 volt generator is in good condition and functioning, then go back to a 6 volt battery. Use minimum of #1 gauge battery cables, and make sure all connections are bright and tight.

If the generator is not functioning and cannot be made to function with new brushses, etc., then it will be less costly to convert to a 12 volt, alternator system.
 
stupid question - how do I test if the generator is good? do I need to take it off and have an alternator/starter shop check it? as I said earlier I am not an auto/tractor electric wiz
 

I would absolutely take the genny off and take it to an auto electric shop to be tested. Be sure to take your voltage regulator with you. They should only charge you a small fee to test.
 

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