Super C rebuild

I got a "54 Super C and the engine needs a rebuild pretty bad. I found a complete rebuild kit but it asks for the main bearing size and the rod bearing size. How do I find this out and also it says STD 3 1/4" overbore with 3.436" sleeve diameter. What I relly need to know is the correct things to get so I don"t mess ant thing up. It may sound stupid fopr me to ask this but I"m only 16 I got a lot to learn still.

You will have to tear it all down & measure the crankshaft(or have it done at a machine shop) to see if it is worn or not. If it needs grinding , they will know what sizes to get. Also , pull a sleeve and get the bottom measured at the same time. Don't order any parts until you know what to order.

As far as the bearings, the size they are asking for has to do with compensating for wear on the crank or having it turned down to round again. Thebearings that are in there may tell you something, so have a look at them. The bearings you have will be stamped on the backside -- an "s" or nothing would indicate that they are the standard bearings that would have fit the crank when it was new. If they are stamped .010 or .020, that means they are for a crank that has worn or been machined down that fraction of an inch. Best bet is to have your crank measured. It will take a good micrometer, not a slide caliper, to do it and is easier done with the crank out of the motor. You would be measuring not just for diameter but for roundness. A machine shop can measure it up for you. If everything is all in round and within tolerances, they could tell you what size bearings you need. If it needs turning, they will either do it there or job it out to a shop that has the equipment to turn it, and it is customary to have that shop supply the bearings to fit.

As far as the sleeves, there was some variation in the blocks of the late SuperAs, as the motor transitioned to the 123 used in the SuperA-1s,but I don't believe there was any variation in the outside diameter or length on the sleeves in the SuperC. It was originally a 3-1/8" bore, but most kits anymore are for 3-1/4" and work just fine, adds about another 10 c.i. displacement.

Thanks. My Shop teacher in school knows how to do all of this and if he doesnt know then he knows someone who does. I will definately have to have him help me with this project. Also, any idea on how much it would cost for the crank to be machined and everything else?

Cost depends upon your machinist. I can quote my machine shop. If the journals just need polished, my shop is $100. If it needs turned and polished, take it to $250.

Remove the enging and put on a stand so you can remove the crank then take it to a shop and let them mike it out. Remove a sleeve so you can get the measurements from the old sleeve the width at the bottom where the rubber seal fits is important so you can get the correct replacement sleeve and piston set. Rings,sleeves,rod bearings,main bearings and complete gasket will cost around 375.

You should take a lot ot pictures during the teardown and take a lot of notes. They will be helpful during the rebuild. Keep all the bolts, parts and nuts separated from one area of the engine and put in a cardboard box and mark it with a magic marker. Will make the rebuild a lot easier. Hal

What manuals or videos do you have on rebuilding the engine?

Gordo

Just make sure the engine has not been changed. Engine part number for the 3.25 kit is 354898. Even if you have that, the block could have been machined, thus the needed measurement at the seal of 3.436.