cub electric problem

steve alderman · Aug 26, 2010

have a 51 cub cub had a mag with no spark so i changed it to a distributor well distributor has fire going to it but not one thing coming from coil tried 3 coils a 6 a 12 and a 6 from my super a that I know is hot switched every wire on reg same results I am just about ready to part this thing out if anybody knows what I am doing wrong let me know thanks Steve

John T · Aug 26, 2010

Your question is so wide open Ive just posted my entire Troubleshootign procedure which may help if you work down through it. When you say the distributor has fire going to it, welllllllll its current has to go into and throught and out of the coils low voltage primary before it gets to the ignition points, and then if they are closed properly (low resistance not all carboned burned points) but then open properly, the coils high voltage tower should produce high voltage.

My procedure tells how to use a test lamp on the coils high input and low output (to distributor) terminals and the input should always be hot when ign is on while the low output (to distributor) should flash ON (points open) and OFF (poinst closed) as the engien cranks over.

Often the problem is the points are burend or pitted or perhaps a bad condensor before I suspect the coil is the problem

Work throught my procedure should diagnose the cause.

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=5745

John T
John Ts Troubleshooting

mkirsch · Aug 26, 2010

Did you install a regular ignition switch, or did you use the magneto kill switch somehow?

The magneto kill switch just grounds the electric in a dead short.

steve alderman · Aug 26, 2010

I know the coil isnt bad that from my super a that was running fine with it ive been looking around theres a wire going from the starter to the amp gauge and where the wire is bolted on is in very bad shape so could be a dead short trying to get off now

d. coleman · Aug 26, 2010

did you try running a wire directly from hot side of battery to terminal on distribtor and therfore bypassing main wiring harness? i got the wrong distributor cap and rotor form my IH dealer which coused me alot of headscratching. good luck, d.coleman

John T · Aug 26, 2010

The wire from the starter to the amp gauge is the main hot feed wire....Then loads like lights and ignition etc etc are all fed off the amp gauges other load side terminal. That (or L if it had a 4 terminal Voltage Regulator) then feeds hot voltage to the ignition switch which feeds the high input (NOT to distributor) side of the coil when its turned ON

Get the test lap and place it on BOTH sides of the coil like my procedure shows and see if on the low to distributor side it flashes on and off like it MUST. if the ign switch isnt feedign voltage down to the coil simply hot wire it by passing the switch n see what happens.

Run my test procedures at my URL link to see whats wrong, piece of cake with only a test lamp

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=5745

John T
Try This

Janicholson · Aug 26, 2010

Do not do this!!! Doing this will burn the points out immediatly. He means (I think) to run a wire from the Hot battery terminal to the Ignition switch side of the coil. This is a hot wire, the other is a HOT wire. Jim

If the points are grounded where the bolt goes through the distributor housing it will cause the issue. That insulator and insulator washer must be put in correctly and not be dammaged. Jim

steve alderman · Aug 27, 2010

I did try that it pop a few times didnt want to do it for too doesnt that burn the points up

d. coleman · Aug 27, 2010

thanks for correcting my mistake, i did mean the hot(ignition switch) side of coil. d.coleman

cub electric problem

steve alderman

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John T

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mkirsch

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steve alderman

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d. coleman

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John T

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Janicholson

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steve alderman

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d. coleman

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