1937 F12

Bill in NJ · Aug 24, 2010

I have a Farmall F12 that has been in the family since 1954. Through the years some things have been changed on the tractor and I would like to find out what the original equipment had on it. I have begun to restore and have a few questions.
1. What size should the front and rear tires be? Where can I get 'original type' tires and tubes. I understand it is a good idea to paint the inside of the wheels with an epoxy oaint to keep the rust from rubbing through the tubes, Correct?
2. What is the point gap supposed to be in the mag?
3. The paint on the tractor is pretty raggity and I would like to strip it, sand it and respray the entire tractor. There is a lot of rust pitting.
What is the best way to repair the pitting before painting?
I understand the wheels should be painted silver. Is Rustoleum aluminum paint acceptible or is there an 'authorized' silver paint available. Not sure if I will be showing this tractor for prizes or just for fun but just in case I would like to have it correct. Any info greatly appeciated.

Nebraska Cowman · Aug 24, 2010

The tire question depends heavily on what size wheels are on it. There were a couple options and some that originally came out on steel were converted to rubber with rims being welded to the existing wheels. The round spoke F&H wheels red red all over. Other combinations may have used plated rims which most people paint "aluminum"
The poit gap should be .012 - .015
As far as rust pitting clean it up well and paint will fill some of the pits. There are fillers you can buy but I don't know how well they hold up.
Lastly "correct" is in the eye of the beholder. part of restoring a tractor is art. It's how it looks right to you that matters. For example you may want to retain some modifications simply because "that's the way Grandpa had it"

Oldiron29 · Aug 24, 2010

Bill, This is a good book for originalty it has alot of facts. Farmall Regular and F-Series by Todd Markle Oldiron29

36F30 · Aug 24, 2010

Got any pics you could post, that would help a bunch.

Tom Fleming · Aug 24, 2010

In addition to what other's have said, there is a filler sanding primer that will smooth out quite a few of the pits, or at least make them less noticeble. I for one don't go to far overboard on filling in pits. I wire brush or sand blast (depending upon the part). I then give it a good coat of etching primer. Then 2-3 coats of sanding primer. Then at least 2, sometimes 3 coats of color.

If any pits are left, they are definately not as deep as they were, and for the most part, on lighter pitting, it goes away completely.

cowman is right on. It is your tractor, and if you like the result, that is all that matters. Over the years I have had the opportunity to see a few Letter series tractors that were barn kept, and had the original paint (owner still alive, and bought the tractor new). I can tell you that IH did not get excited about runs, overspray, or anything approximating a professional paint job. They covered the tractor and then put the decals on after it baked. So, if you really want to produce a "factory" paint job, make sure there are runs and globs at various points on the tractor. :wink:

1937 F12

Bill in NJ

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Nebraska Cowman

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Oldiron29

Well-known Member

36F30

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Tom Fleming

Well-known Member

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