Farmall H charging problem

I have just (almost) completed a 1 1/2 year restoration on a 1951 Farmall H. This has a distributor w/battery and voltage regulator. I put on a new generator(stayed with the 6 volt), a new voltage regulator a new wiring harness and also new heavy battery cables to go with the new battery. Being naive, I hoped all would work upon assembly. The battery doesn"t seem to be charging. I did polarize the generator and follow the wiring diagram to a T.
The one thing I do notice is that the light switch is a 4 position which I think in the early tractors was also a manual control for charging. Any help to diagnose the system would be appreciated. I"m not up on these systems.
Thanks for any help

Yea if it's a 4 switch you have a high charge and low charge for long use. I believe its the bottom two on the switch. as for the charging it might be a positive ground? I'm not real sure.

The top 2 are for the brights and dims on the headlights

Russ: Be sure there is a good ground between the switch box and the top cover.

Following the diagram on a tractor with both a regulator, and a 4position switch is tough to do, as there are no correct diagrams.

Only the lights should be hooked to the light switch, there should be a wire from the amp gauge to the switch, and from the switch to the tail light, and the switch to the head lights. The wire going to the F terminal on the generator is not used at all. It should be disconnected.

One 10 gauge wire should go from the Arm terminal of the generator, to the Arm (or GEN) terminal of the regulator.

One 10 gauge wire goes from the Bat terminal of the regulator to the load side of the Amp gauge (side not hooked to the starter switch)

One 12 gauge wire from the F terminal of the GEN to the F terminal of the regulator. A very good regulator ground must be provided, as is also true of the generator frame to tractor ground. (bare metal to metal)

If it has a L terminal, it can be ignored, or it can be hooked to the light switch instead of the wire described above.

If it is not charging when wired as above, polarize the generator by: shutting it off. Using a piece of wire to jump from the Bat terminal of the regulator, to the arm terminal of the Regulator. (it will spark, it should)

then try it running.

If nothing, try using that jumper wire to ground the F terminal (running at 3/4 throttle)

It should charge (this is not dangerous or harmful to try) If it now charges, the regulator might be faulty.
Keep us informed, Jim

A 51 H didn't have a four position switch which I think you have some what clarified yourself. So, therefore if you do indeed have a voltage regulator, the field wire from generator will be hooked to field terminal of regulator where as if you were using the four position switch the field would be hooked to the light switch for high and low charge. Then your cover on on box would need to have a good ground but when you have a regulator it is not in the circuit. You can tell if generator is capable of charging by grounding the field wire at generator, if it charges then the problem is with the regulator or wiring. Just make sure your arm terminal of generator is hooked to arm term of gen and battery terminal of regulator is hooked to ammeter. If hooked properly the ammeter will show discharge when engine is not running and you turn on the lights. If not, you need to recheck your wiring.

As far as I can tell the 4 position switch is only being used as a light switch the way it is wired. The ammeter (also new) does show a discharge if I turn the lights on. I am making the assumption either the generator or the voltage regulator, even though new, is not working. I will try shorting the field to ground on the generator. If it charges, I think that would narrow things down to the VR.
thanks

I agree. At this point the 4 position switch seems to only be used as a light switch and the connections you list on the regulator are as you list them. I will check the ground(+)on the VR to make sure I have continuity.
The good news is this is the first H I ever drove in the past 50 years that has working lights AND brakes.
thanks

As long as you have gone this far toward a quality job, why not replace the four position switch with a three position switch, then use the wiring diagram?