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attn: Bob and/or Janicholson

7

7lazy77

Member
This is in regards to the A that won't crank/start & is completely dead.
I played around with it a little tonight & tried your suggestion (using test light between battery cable terminal on the starter switch & ground). The came on & when I pressed the starter rod, there was a little pop at the kill swich on the tractor & the light went OFF. Tried repeating & I couldn't get the light to come back on.
So next I took a voltmeter & put the black probe on the negative cable & the red probe on the positive cable. Voltage read 12.14. When I tried to start the engine, the voltage dropped almost all the way down to 0 & sparked once at the negative connection.
I am troubleshooting & trying different suggestions, but not quite sure what this tells me or leads me in the right direction to diagnose the problem, so I can fix it & get the tractor up & running & back to work. Thanks for your time & help.
 
Until Bob and Jim get here, First thing I would do ESPECIALY where you saw that "spark" is to REMOVE, CLEAN AND WIRE BRUSH, AND REATTACH EACH AND EVERY BATTERY AND STARTER AND SWITCH CABLE CONNECTION all clean n bright n shiny. A bad cable or connection may be all the problem is ?????????????????????

AFTER alllllllll connections have been cleaned and re attached when you try and start it see if the lights dim way down badly (i.e. or voltage drops drastically) and if so I suspect a bad starter or perhaps the starter is mechanically stuck/jammed (check that out!!!) However if theres little light dimmage (volts dont drop much) then I suspect more a bad switch or a bad connection

FINALY have a shop load test the battery as the battery itself may be the problem

Hope this helps, let us all know

John T
 
Where the spark was located was the failed connection. As John T points out shiny and clean. I like to spray a battery terminal protector on it when clean (if the terminal on the bat is spsrking) Battery terminal cleaner tools with a wire brush that fits each side of the terminal (cone shaped brush for the inside of each clamp, and a socket internal brush for the posts is very nice for a tool box. Jim
 
Yes and when you put a load to it, it will(can) drop to zero. That is why a battery should be tested with a load tester. It checks the amp output and voltage at the same time.
 
Repeated attempts to crank with bad connections can damage the starter. Ask me how I know....Just stay alert to the troubleshooter's nightmare: two simultaneous problems. If it won't crank, don't keep pushing.

In my case, trying to crank with a bad battery cable led to frying one of the starter brush wires, meaning only half the windings were energized.
 
The popular misconception is that if a battery charges it is still good. A battery must be a ble to hold a load. When battery shops test it they put a drain on it for 15 seconds it cannot drop below I believe 10.? volts. If it does it is bad.
 
THANKS everybody for their help! Gave the posts a good scubbing with wire brush & you could just see the crud coming off. Attached the cables back up & BAM...she started right up! Amazing what a good, clean connection can do.
 
(reply to muleboss
Regular


Joined: 19 May 2010
Posts: 25
Location: Kansas

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Posted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 10:46 pm Post subject: Re: A won't start

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Check you battery cables and connections. Bet one of them is bad or dirty.

post at 11:33:16 08/05/10)
Click to expand...

Would I not be the winner? Bob
 
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